Seriously,
You are a Rep from Dino Direct and yet here you are Spamming in a Clearly Marked GearBest Review.
You go look at the thread you linked/posted and tell me If I spammed in that thread or even commented in it.
Answer is Heck No, because it against the Forum rules and against common decency.
Others may have linked my review in that thread, I have no control over that, nor did I implore anyone to do that.
There are plenty of customers to go around, no need to be over here.
I see you use your “Summer” screen name here with your skype address clearly listed as gabyzzy which is your screen name used on the other thread.
I have been on forums that would ban all your names for trying to use 2 different screen names, but whatever.
Just please don’t do it, bad form.
Thanks,
Keith
Very interesting, nice review too, similar size to Eagle Eye x6 and for me fixes a lot of where EE fell short…except for that UI order… Not to take any of that great effort by Krono away, and I’m sure Eagle Eye will be great too, but I don’t like being babysat with my turbo, going right into high is nice, no moonlight but a nice low low and DD turbo without stepdown are all more my preference and its just awesome for $20 too Now if they would only have some more tint options like 4C or warmer in this light and XML2!
I’ve heard a lot of difficulties dealing with DinoDirect, writings with multiple usernames, bad reviews and pricing not as advertised (real $20.99 when you go to the link, not $20.59 as advertised above) makes me very leery of ordering from them…
It was originally $20.99 with the code, then DD lowered the before discount price and it was indeed $20.59 each time I checked. Anyway, code has expired as its 11/4 china timezone.
No experience with DD since buying the original Tank007 E09 in 2012 so I’ve missed any problems personally. Hoping they are making a new effort to improve. :~
Thank for the review Muto. The light looks great. I'm kind of torn between it and the 26650 version with the xml2 for $1.46 more. Wouldn't be a pocketable, but would have more cell capacity and slightly larger reflector.
Oh, you could pocket the 26650 model. It is small.
I purchased one of the 26650 models, it is part # P22650-L2 and while it is a very small format and XM-L2, the tint is slightly cooler and it does not draw as many amps, I got just over 3 amps on my best battery fully charged. I have not yet Braided the driver spring (this model has one, unlike the Mini or the D80) so it will probably pull a small amount more, but will not get near the output of the D80.
Now, it is common knowledge that the XM-L2 emmiter’s will draw less amperage from the same driver as the forward voltage required is higher, but the 1.5 amp difference is not going to be eliminated.
One important note on the P22650-L2, the tail cap appears to be glued, have not been able to get it loose. Have not tried heat yet. I wondered why all the pictures given for this model light always showed the battery tube separated from the head and never the tail cap. Now we know why. It is really hard to even tell where the cap threads together but it appears to be on the last cut on the tube.
If anyone has the comparable Palight and has gotten the tail cap apart, please chime in.
If you want the run time, go for the bigger light, but at least with my samples, the D80 is brighter.
They are both have flawless anno and great build so you can’t go wrong with either that you chose.
HTH
Keith
OK, I think you are asking “How did you get the tail cap switch apart?” and how did you get the driver out?
I had to use a big pair of Circlip/Snapring pliers, once you get the ring broke loose, it goes OK, threads are still somewhat stiff in tail cap, could be dirty threads. Don’t know for sure.
I just got back inside from being out in the Barn and trying to get the P26650-L2 model Tail cap loose, but to no avail. Ending up bitching up the anno some on the head. It’s not meant to be a shelf Queen to me anyway, so no big deal, now I will not feel bad when it get dropped:)
I did manage to get the bezel loose and got the reflector out, everything looks good around emitter, looks like thermal glue and nice solder job of wires.
I can also report that the P26650-L2 is now pulling 3.23 amps after running a jumper wire inside the driver spring. It holds output very well too.
Here is a size comparison of the P22650-L2 , http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_68007.html
The Mini20, http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_67813.html
And the D80
Here are some out door beam shots from last night, it’s almost a full moon so that isn’t helping. That and my Fuji camera does not have a lot of manual overrides, but anyway they are better than nothing.
I used a Microphone stand to hold the flashlight, works pretty good.