No PWM with this one .... Yeah I wasnt sure ... I will edit the post ... .. [ checked with digital camera PWM ]
Update , the DX 10 is some what battery challenged , I started of by using my AW 16340's as they have sat around doing nothing for the last 12 months or so , but then I thought , I should try out a few other cells . I started with the Trustfire [Flame] protected , and its too long for the light to work . Grey protected 16340 and Grey Trustfire protected are aslo to long , in fact anything longer than a Primary CR123A will induce greater force into the clicky action as the cell is longer , it looks like you need very short Protected cells or unprotected cells . Sorry guys , been bussy with school , or I would have checked sooner .
Guys , I should have been clearer ... My bad ... Left it a little open maybe , though I did say modes , Hi med Lo , but I should have not left any doubt ... Fixed now . [ re Modes ]
Unfortunately during the week im in School "mode" [ IT Course ] and this week my brain was wrapped around VB [ Visual Basic ] and wasnt that fun .
This is correct...it is PWM but it is the fastest I have ever seen, it is next to impossible to detect with the eye but if you try to see it and know what you are looking for you can make yourself see it. Without trying very very hard to see it it is absolutely undetectable.
New ones are the D11/ EX11. Slightly different externals, internally fundamentally similar or close, but what is a little different is the UI.
New one (D11/EX11) is a Ramping with shortcuts to Strobe and SOS (and a digital lockout function). Fundamentally its the SP model, but with ramping brightness instead of the 3 mode cycle. Press and hold to ramp up, press and hold again to ramp the other way.
Personally I don't like the newer version because it takes a whole 4 seconds or something to ramp from min to max and back the other way. Takes too long if you wanted moonlight from max.. The SP is a far more practical model (as sold by boaz)
The Old ramping model does not have any strobe or SOS hidden modes, nor does it have digital lockout. What it has are shortcuts to high and low.
Cells that are too long (trustfires) dont really work in the EX10/EX11. The trustfire flames I was using only needed an additional 0.5mm of space, which the normal 1mm spring wire thickness was taking up. You need shorter cells, or for mine, I made a new shorter spring that sits within the depression at the bottom of the piston with some 0.7mm SS wire. Its a little tricky, but after a few attempts I got mine to work.
I Dont like the feel of the piston with the mod though... Just not right to me. (im expecting close to perfection haha!)
Does the D11 have the double click high/double click hold for low? A slower ramp would be great for the low range on the old style, but the double clicking options are invaluable.
The ramping speed of the D11/EX11 isnt that much better in the low range, however the loss of the shortcuts to high/low are the whole reason I DISLIKE the new model. Its really impractical now, fancy, but not actually functional anymore.
Other problem with the new model is the parasitic drain. The older D10/EX10 circuit has between 0.5-2mA parasitic drain, the newer circuit has at least 6-8mA drain, some maybe more. That means you will be flattening batteries in a week or two.
Air tool oil seems to work pretty good as a lube for the oring a lot easier smoother action. Used them in paintball guns where theres high air pressure.
It has parasitic drain becasue the switching is electronic. The piston presses onto the circuit, creating a momentary electrical connection. This tells the circuit to turn on.
But to do this type of switching, the circuit always needs to be on so that its ready and waiting for you to press the switch, and therefore slowly drains the battery. The Parasitic drain of the nitecore 10 series give you a years battery life in the off state. The 11 series gives you about a month or a couple weeks worth (which is Very bad). Its all dependent on the electronic design, and the battery source.
If your torch uses a normal clicky switch, or is a twisty torch, you will not have parasitic drain because the switch physically disconnects the battery from the circuit.
Most budget lights will not have parasitic drain issues becasue they are switched mechanically. This is becasue its generally cheaper to install a switch, than to incorporate a more complicated switching mechanism.
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