not same driver but most likely the same type of implemenation. Previously I saw loneoceans make a schematic of the K9.3, so this is probably the same but with only one channel.
I haven’t tested it myself, but that should work.
However some caution is in order:
- if your foil bridges to the contact ring on the bottom of the switch pcb in the tailcap that the inner tube touches, the light will act as if you’re constantly holding down the switch button. You’d have bypassed the switch and the switch won’t actually do anything.
- to avoid this I recommend removing the switch tailcap ring. Place a ring of something conductive under that ring to raise it up. Rather than foil, I suggest a bit of stripped wire, copper sheet bent into a ring, or a properly sized washer. Even a small paperclip bent into a ring might be sufficient.
- After installing your homemade spacer, screw the tailcap retaining ring back into place. As you do so check to make sure the spacer is completely under the retaining ring with nothing hanging out. If so, push it under as you tighten the ring.
Thanks for the response. I will try the stripped wire solution under the cap ring. The foil does work, btw 
I just find it odd that the small tube was built to not have any kind of lanyard solution. I’m afraid I may drop the tiny thing. I can now fidget with other things while out walking the dogs
Ok then, I bent a stiff wire just slightly larger than the bottom cap and pressed it in. Works perfectly with the small tube. Unfortunately it won’t allow the long tube to seat completely and the lanyard ring spins. It’s ok once I decide to leave it as short or long. I just find it odd that the Ti version will work with a lanyard ring with the small tube, but the Aluminum version won’t without mods.
I posted the D4v2.5/KR4 CC circuit previously here : Adventures in TinyAVR 1-Series - #91 by thefreeman
Indeed it’s the same except R3 which sets Vsense to 50mV (5A) instead of 90mV(9A).
AFAIK the KR4s and D4v2s w/ the CC driver still have the FET physically present, it’s just disabled via firmware by using the “noFET” version. At least one person has received a 3535 emitter light (where the FET should have been fully enabled) where it mistakenly wasn’t and a reflash solved the issue.
Can anyone tell me the r9 value of the Nichia 219C (SM503) 5000K 92+ CRI? I tried looking at the spec sheet and I can’t find it and don’t know where to look.
New to flashlights, I can’t find a 30q battery. It has 15a discharge rating. Could I use a 20a discharge rated battery. Same 3000mah capacity. It’s an efest battery. Is the efest k1 charger good? This is all in regards to the noctigon flashlight. I want to purchase one but unsure of what battery and charger to use. There is so many options. I was looking at a Sony battery very similar to the Samsung but also found this efest. I’m really iffy on chargers. Not sure what is good. All my other flashlights have usb chargers on the battery. I don’t wanna screw up and mess up a flashlight or blow something up.
Does anyone know where to source the very tiny rubber washer that stops the lanyard ring and the clip from rotating? I have broken 2 so far while changing configurations. Thanks
Email hank from intl-outdoor
Will do, thanks
Hi!
Considering a second KR4, since I gave first one to a friend.
A “bit lost” on the variety of LEDs, which to choose.
Mandatory is CRI90 or better. 4500-5000K tint(neutral).
Which would be the optimal?
Use will be work use, short range, max power and mostly for 5-10seconds only.
You’d want domed 519As and linear driver for max output on short turbo bursts.
The 519A 4500K is really nice. The SST20 4000K is also pretty nice and at high/turbo it doesn’t look overly warm…the 5000K at the same currents also looks pretty good but of course not as nice at lower levels and it’s not a high CRI emitter (not bad, though, if certain color differentiations aren’t critical). The plastic optics clean up a little of the usual SST20 sins that are more apparent in reflectors. I wish the 519A were available in a 5000K but not yet…dedoming the 5700K isn’t a good solution over just using the 4500K instead, imho.
Nice of you to give your friend such a great light! If you’re not married to the tail switch on the KR4 the newer 21700 D4K is really worth a look, too (more expensive, though).
I was visiting Poland to our second production light and the company bosses were too cheap to get them proper tools (a good light Really is useful), so I left it there.
I think the first one was with SST but I cannot remember for sure,I think it was pretty OK.
If I take the Nichia option, do I lose a lot of output?
Aside from E21A's, the 519A 5000K is the only emitter that falls in this CCT range. The 4500K 519A is closer to 4000-4300K in practice, and the 5000K is around 4700-5000K. I personally find the 4500K 519A too warm and yellow/green for daytime use.
If the 5000K 519A is not available, do a 4500K and 5700K half/half mix.
Domed 519As are very neutral and have 95+ CRI, often 97+. You can't go wrong with choosing 519A. In fact, you gain output over SST20, which has been made pretty much obsolete by the 519A.
I wouldn’t call the SST20 obsolete by any means but if you’re looking for warm or rosy then no, it’s not for you. It’s still an excellent emitter that can handle current and has good throw, generally a nice beam.
The 519A is basically a much nicer tint/temp range of the Samsung LH351D and can handle almost as much current, so it’s nice and bright and so far they seem really robust in the short time they have been on the market. They are a step up from the usual Nichia that can’t handle as much heat/current as many other emitters. Comparing it with SST20 isn’t so straightforward, especially in an optic vs a reflector, but ounce for ounce I think they’re pretty comparable, but of course the SST20 has a smaller surface which changes how we perceive the output (moreso in a reflector of the same dimensions). In real use with the KR4 you may lose a little range with the 519A but the bigger difference to your eyes will probably be the tint/temp, which might make it seem like less anyway. 519A is a great emitter, good reason that everyone has been raving about them and swapping them into old lights. The high CRI SST20 is no slouch, though (and the bin that Hank has been selling for those is pretty nice…nicer than what Simon has had).
If you’re running at high/turbo the temps will be pretty much what you’d expect although the optic does affect it a little of course. If you get his boost driver, the max current is dumbed down in favor of less heat/longer run time, so they will appear a little warmer compared to the fet driver. The 519A suffers very little in tint shift as the current drops, where the SST20 (even the high CRI) accentuates any greenishness the lower you go. I see zero green in my 4500K (from Hank or from Simon) at any current, very neutral tint, but it does get warmer at lower levels as you’d expect.
Is the efficiency in line with the premium manufacturers when using the optional boost driver they sell?
Just want to mention that my D4V2 with SST-20 4000K FA3 bins is nice and rosy.
Comparing Acebeam E70 and KR4 boost driver the later has higher efficiency : Efficiency measurements of a few drivers
2 Thanks
Heading over to the other thread. Thanks!