I have no reason to doubt the S1R and S1r v2 use IMR batteries. The part numbers are posted by rookiedaddy in the first post…
a search of this thread for the keyword IMR, shows rookiedaddy used the term no less than 3 times, before I posted:
he goes into more detail further down:
Thanks for the details rookiedaddy
My prior reading of your posts left me to believe I should treat the IMR in the S1R v1 as unprotected
According to Olight, they are… well, somewhat. The specification table I received says that the Olight IMR battery has a max constant discharging current of 2.75A, and a protective discharging current of 5A. However, I would still treat them as unprotected regardless.[/QUOTE]
Maximum Discharge Current is not the same as OverDischarge Protection. So, now that Im totally confused about the use of the term Protected, I think I will simply avoid the S1R v1 and V2, so I dont have to deal with a unique, proprietary battery, that may or may not be protected, and may or may not be IMR, and may or may not be chargeable outside the light, which may or may not have built in OverDischarge Protection…
harrumph… Im taking my ball and going home to play by myself… LOL
you could do a test with your S1R v1 battery to prove or disprove whether it has OverDischarge Protection
Put the S1R v1 battery into one of your UnProtected Olights, such as an Olight S Mini, and run it down until the light shuts off, or voltage goes below 2.5v…
IF the light shuts off, AND the S1R v1 battery reads 0 volts, then that IMR battery has built in OverDischarge Protection…
from what rookiedaddy posted of his test of the S1R v2 battery going down to 1.8volts, it clearly does not have OverDischarge Protection built into the battery. Otherwise the S1R v2 batteryt would have gone to 0volts when OverDischarge Protection kicked in at 2.5v, which is not what happened.
So, IF the S1R v1 battery goes below 2.5volts, then it is also UNProtected, the same as the S1R v2 battery.
The S1R charger is not just a cable, there is a blue charging disc on the end, that has different electronics inside. Version 2 cable charges at a higher rate, and the Version 2 IMR battery has double the maximum Discharge Rate as well. Version 1 Battery says 5C, Version 2 battery says 10C on the label:
you will find these details mentioned in the first post:
I believe I would still be carrying my ugly beam S1R to this day if it was not for one (for me) fatal flaw. The battery, make that the proprietary battery, that makes it possible to charge inside the light with the MCC, does not do well with high loads at COOL, not even cold, temperatures. I experienced this a few times on evening walks with my wife, as noted in this thread. The final straw was on a camping trip this past May, when I had the light off in my pocket at night and tried to see something away from the campfire using the 600 lumen mode and it stepped down to medium or low after a few seconds.
I am wondering if you could do a cool temperature test with the new battery to see if it is at all improved. The Olight (and most 16340) cells do better at full charge, but at less than full the sag is bigger, and the voltage change required to cause the S1R to step down to lower levels is smaller.
Would be nice if olight could use a design that doesn’t require proprietary batteries, like nitecore does on many of their rechargeable lights.
It would require having the charging circuit in the head.
Maybe they could make it USB-C compatible too, even better.
Same here. It seemed my S1R “Turbo” Baton was always stepping down to ~300 lumens before I thought it should, while my S1, S Mini and S1 Mini Batons seem to be able to hold their 550-600 lumen high setting for a more usable length of time, so I still have and use them.
Although I still have several other tailcap charging Olights, that feature has lost a lot of its initial appeal. I’d rather have spare batteries ready to go when a light needs them, rather than having the light tied to a charger that won’t let me select current or tell me where the battery is in the charge cycle.
Even so, I’ll probably try one of the new S1R IIs since I got an email from Olight today saying they were extending this Fridays 2 hour flash sale by 24+ hours (running through Saturday), which is way too long for me to resist that kind of temptation.
I believe you could try using a strong demagnetizer/degausser to remove the magnetism from the tailend. Do not use heat, because the heat may damage components at the tailend.
LOL! jon, I like the way you put it... bwahahaha... :D
The older model ORB-163C05 IMR battery does have protection, but they removes it from the new ORB-16C05-10C IMR battery due to the 10C discharge requirement.
Don't charge S1R batteries, ORB-163C05, ORB-16C05-10C using the Olight UC Magnetic charger, it may create a short. In fact, don't use Olight UC Magnetic charger on any of Olight's proprietary "dual-polarity" batteries.
I did a quick test, but I'm in the opinion that my test is inconclusive due to my method of simulating the cold environment. I put the fully charged S1R in the freezer compartment of my fridge for 10 minutes. Before starting the test, measured temp at 10°C, switch-on the S1R Baton II, Medium mode, double click to bring it to Turbo mode, Turbo can sustain for more than a minute.
I then close the freezer door with S1R Baton II inside, left it for another 11 minutes, ran the same test again, same results. I can still run Turbo normally.
It's a known issue with LiIon/Alkaline battery that in colder temperature, the battery will have higher IR until it's "warmed-up", and a common solution (that I learnt from frequent hiker) is to use our body heat to keep the light/battery warm enough to power up the device. As such, my S1R Baton II ability to run Turbo at "relatively" cold temperature does not discount your experience nor claim that Olight's newer light/battery is better at running in colder temperature. I still think testing in real environment is essential to confirm, but since I lives in an equatorial country where it's hot and humid throughout the year, I'll have to leave such test to other reviewers.
if cold temperature is not a factor, then the battery is due for a refresh. I had the same thing happened to me even when I'm sure the battery is fully charged. I refresh the ORB-163C05 by discharging it until protection kicks-in, and then I use XTAR SV2 with 0.25A charge rate to charge it back up, then I repeat the discharge-charge cycle again. And the battery is back to normal performance.
another possibility is the ORB-163C05 has aged and should be replace.
wholeheartedly agreed. frankly, I'm still waiting for their first 18350 light.
That kind of faff with battery power, sag and such is why I’m not a fan of the 16340 format. They’re small, adorable and easy to carry, but way too low capacity to really put out the power when you actually need it.
Now, question: if you don’t count the “wow lumens” factor, would it be better to get this or the previous S1R at a good sale discount?
In that case, I withdraw my objection to using the S1R v1 proprietary PROTECTED IMR in an unprotected Olight S Mini.
I based my objection on your previous statement to “treat ORB-163C05 as unprotected”.
I also found this, confirming the S1R v1 battery is a Protected IMR: Olight ORB-163C05 IMR RCR123A / 16340 550mAh 3.7V Protected High-Drain 2.75A Lithium Ion (Li-ion) Button Top Battery
there is also a comment on the label “built in circuit board prevents OverDischarging”:
Thanks for giving it a go. I had the problem when the battery is closer to half discharged. I suspect a fully charged battery put in the freezer for 10 minutes would work fine, I may try that tonight.
The S1R was the first light I tried that stuck in my pocket for months and got used all the time. So many things I liked, including the MCC, the UI, the size, the moonlight mode, the mode spacing, being able to measure the battery voltage with out taking the battery out, the size.
Then after the cold battery issue started to bug me, I found the Emisar D4. That with the 18350 tube is my EDC now. Better UI, better tint, more fun modes that are useful to me.
But I may check out the new S1RII anyway, we will see how I feel when the sale comes along on Friday.
Actually, a more accurate comparison would be Armytek. They have managed to implement a magnetic charging system similar to Olight, but it doesn’t require proprietary batteries. Oh, and there’s been no reports of it being a fire hazard, unlike some of Olight’s models. Klarus also has a magnetic charging system on some of their XT lights, although theirs is on the side of the light, not the tailcap.
LOL! To clarify, I treat all LiIon (IMR, INR, ICR, IFR, etc.) batteries the same, regardless of whether they are protected or not, that is, I handle them all as UNprotected LiIon battery, and that is, with respect. I learned a great deal from many CPF and BLF members’ experience and other battery experts (including batteryuniversity.com and the book [Batteries In A Portable World]) that the best protection is between our ears. I do not rely on battery protection circuit in my day-to-day charging and discharging activities to provide protection for the LiIon battery, and to certain extend, this carries on to NiMH chemistry too.
I have in many occasions shared that the protection circuit in battery is to protect the battery, not us — the users. As a father of two, I’ve also put in certain unwritten rules about battery handling in my household and trained my kids (and wifey, she needs reminder once in a while) to treat all batteries with respect, especially LiIon battery-powered devices. :heart_eyes:
I will not forget this when I get that charger