I found out the right Oring to head returning technique.
There is upper and lower section in the head. Lower section is tighter, upper section is wider… Or how to say head has transition from narrow to wide section when we watch into head internal diameter and narrow section uses mentioned oring while wider section uses brass pill oring so that way we have double oring sliding mechanism (almost no movments at all if you placed O rings properly…
So what you need to do? You need to place neck section of flashlight into head but watch very carfuly untill it starts transition from narrow to wider section… When it protrudes few mm from tighter to wider section you got to put mentioned oring inside with a help of a toothpick or similar tool… Now in this point when you have inserted oring you gotta make tool out of A4 printer paper; tube that will embrace neck section OD and with careful and gently press it will will be pushing oring to bottom narrow section. You gotta to have feeling for that because at same time you must do zoom out action while pressing with paper tube.
For returning of oring some kind of ultra thin metal sheet tube could also do the trick as a more permanent tool than paper for someone who needs to mod lets say 20 –100 of this lights.
Mine was stick to the lans like it was glued but in fact it was vacuum effect.
“It is a cushion rather than a waterproofing device.” Yes and not just that… It uses for proper centering lens from emitter.
But it still has o ring in a flashlight bezel, double oring at neck section, and thick oring at tailcap. You can toss and leave it in a bucket of water and nothing should happen.
Personally I don’t do nothing… I think you will not have issues at all. Maybe slightly overfocus can occur when zoomed in. But since it is zoomie you can just zoom out slightly.
If it will bothering or if it will be to annoying (in one word if you are perfectionist) you’ll just need slightly thicker/thinner oring combination under the lens.
Nice that you like it
Well, if the cells are unprotected (or not very long) you’ll have no issue Are those the white ones?
Yes, the i3 as weel as th Z821 create some rings due to the lens, gasket and bezel. Blackening them or making them “matte” helps avoiding some of that reflection.
Ahah, don’t enter the zoomie twilight zone, or you won’t get back from there
This is a nice small light, with a better UI it can make a good EDC, but to each its own
Not sure what will arrive, I just asked for a 16340. But I have several 16340 lights and can swap batteries.
If I EDC it or not, don’t know. But it’s fun to toy with.
Here’s a diagram, lux (arbitrary distance) vs. extension [mm]. Looks like a sigmoid. Is that plausible?
Edit: And btw., the i3 has as much throw as the 1000 lm S1RII. I know, it’s just a tiny square, but still…not bad for a light that otherwise can evenly illuminate a huge area and is as inefficient as zoomies are. Late night thoughts.
Hum, I am not sure if I understood the graphic well. Do you mean: lux increase if the flashlight is zoomed in/more focused? I am not sure if it can be represented that way, but yes, it increases a lot.
I did a small experiment: at around 1m from the luxmeter, on the lowest mode of the Z821 (zoomable).
Full flood: 3 lux
Zoomed to 0.5cm: 15 lux
Zoomed to 1cm: 93 lux
Full zoom: 109 lux
Not sure how this can be represented on a graphic, though
I don’t have the S1RII, just the 1st version (modded) so I can’t compare, but I guess this may be better for some closer range or a longer one, because on the intermediate, the S1RII will probably better!
Last night I swapped the emitter in my On the Road I3. Previously I had a neutral white 4000K XPL HI 5D in it. This produced decent flood with fairly good throw. I replaced the emitter with an Oslon White 1. WOW! It’s super-throwy now! Amazing amount of throw for such a tiny light.
I’m not using the stock driver in this light. Not sure what driver I have in there. Might be a FET driver. Hopefully ok since its running off a tiny 16340 cell.