Got around to mod my 2nd X6M the other day along with an Xintd X3.
This time I used an R020 for peak output of 5-5,1A on max. Salvaged from Solarstorm Warrior.
Trimmed the Noctigon more than last time, so no trimming on the screws were necessary.
Like my first X6M, screws were not holding the stock star down. All parts on the light were very tightly secured (strap wrench and good tool needed). I trimmed the locating ring this time too, but could not say I was not able to measure any increase in output before and after. You can probably skip that step if you mod it.
RMM(/mtn electronics), DrJones or led4power have different drivers that works with an E-switch (and mechanical switch). The light in the switch will not work with those drivers though, but some or them are better compared to stock UI in several other ways.
Unfortunately it is the reason, its actualy mechanicaly broken for some reason, maybe over pushed, didnt asked him, the driver`s PCB is nearly on 2 halfs
led4power you say? The Croatian guy ? I was just going to order 2 of those drivers that he offers LD-1, the default driver in that on the road fl is 30.5mm
Strip down the stock driver if its broken and connect the LD-1 to it so that you get power. Connect E-switch to LD-1. (I assume you can just use the correct wires from the stock switch)
Yeah, the default driver board can be used as a dummy PCB extender for the new one, i was thinking the same
That LD driver is 5amp one, i am a bit conserned about the head dissipation in the torsh, will it require aditional modding? Cause i dont wanna swap also the emitter PCB with copper or anything, its too much handywork for a flashlight that isnt even mine, heh
Plus, will it stand for 10-15mins at least at 5amp load with the default emitter as it is?
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