I got a stock T-20 w/XML T6 and a modded one with a de-domed XP-G2. The one with the stock XML is no pencil beam for sure - but the de-domed XP-G2 is far narrower. A lot depends on the emitter. The optic size will tell us somewhat how it performs, but of course quality of optics do vary, so won't realy know. The T-20 quality is pretty decent: C8 compatible brass pill, nice finish - main reason why it was so popular. I'm sure the B-650 though will be better and definitely superior heat sinking.
Great review — thanks.
However, having spent the last couple days thinking about micro blue bears, I’m forced to think about the name… send nits? Huh?
Definition of NIT
1
: the egg of a louse or other parasitic insect; also : the insect itself when young
2
: a minor shortcoming
So, why would you want either of these sent?
Thank you for the great review!
About the accessories, mine came with holster, but without diffuser. Group buy contents are still very open, as we are negotiating hard to get the price down. I'll confirm those in the GB thread if/when we get the negotiations finished. :)
I have both T20 (stock & modded to >100kcd) and this light, and I'd say that the T20 feels like a toy compared to this. When I took this light to my hand the first time, I couldn't help thinking of a Supfire M6 and comparing this to it. The build quality & robustness are totally on the same level!
One interesting "feature" is that the reflector causes a slight hot spot also in the zoomed out mode. It's a bit hard to describe, but I really like the beam profile: Nice uniform flood with a brighter mid portion.
Edit: You forgot to mention the tripod mount in the pros. It's a big pro for me at least. :)
ruffles wrote:
. . . So, why would you want either of these sent?
No reasons that I know. Since you just sent virtual versions of them into my thread, it seems you would be better qualified to answer that question.
_the_ wrote:
. . . Edit: You forgot to mention the tripod mount in the pros. It's a big pro for me at least.
Thank you. I'll want to take some better beam shots and I'll be adding more break down shots and measurements as I mod the light. Was hoping to do that yesterday, but more important domestic matters got in the way. Hey, is the reflector reverse threaded? Mine is on real tight and I don't want to tighten it more.
I agree with all you comments about the light. The beam pattern is better than non-reflectored aspherics. I'm pretty sure I will be grabbing this light a lot when I go into the yard and such.
I agree with you about the tripod. I keep meaning to add that.
No, it's normal. Tail cap is reverse.
BTW: I drilled two small blind holes both to tailcap and pill to be able to disassemble them easier.
Thank you. There was a touch of low temp thread lock holding it in place. Just took a lot of force to break loose. Almost broke the retaining ring pliers though.
Unfortunately for those wanting to mod to high current levels, there are a few potential thermal path challenges to over come. Added a discussion about them under the "Cons:" area.
Added some more break down pics.
Worked on modding my B-650 a little yesterday. 1" copper pipe coupling cut to about .19" makes a nice thermal bridge for the bottleneck I pointed out in the review. Longer if you taper it make better contact with the portion of the head that widens. 1" copper pipe coupling was just a touch to wide. Used a drill and wet sand to bring the diameter down just a little bit. I should be posting a mod thread in a few days with pictures and more details.
An easier solution would be to tightly pack aluminum foil in that dead space under the pill (but above the driver retaining ring). Probably would work fine as there is a lot of space in there for the foil to make contact.
EDIT: Small edit made above.
Maybe you stated but do you have an emitter swap planned? In my very limited exp w/ aspheric lights I’ve noticed the larger the lens the smaller the hot spot, I have a 26650 zoomie with a lens ~26-28mm with a dedomed XP-G2 and the square it projects is SMALLER than the spot from my SK98 with dedomed XP-E2 so I’m guessing with that larger lens it would be even better.
I’d not seen this light (and if I did I didn’t remember it), I like how it offers the larger lens but is more pocketable (especially collapsed) than a T20. Zoomies are pretty low on my to-buy list but next time I have some free light money I think I’ll grab one of these to do some experimentation with.
Edit never mind not at $50! Hope it comes down soon, I would like one of these. To bad the name sucks lol.
That's my general experience too, but this lens has a relatively large hot spot. I imagine, it's more a factor of the convex curve than the diameter. Djozz is very knowledgeable in this area.
I'm wrapping up modding this light, hopefully tonight. Yes, I swapped the emitter to XP-G2 T4 3C. I like warmer tints in aspherics as they seem to cool down the tint. Keeping the dome as I don't want to lose any more lumens (stepping down from xml is enough lumen loss).
This light has a few thermal bottlenecks. I've tried to correct them and am hoping they will be enough to go DD. That is actually the biggest reason I'm going XPG instead of XML. A hard driven XML will overheat this light too fast.
i hope next week that my send nits coming 
in my uf 20 i have broken the dedome xpg 2 and now its a xpe2 (noctigon dedome)
why is it so more brighter ?
the church now bright at 400 meter.
XP-E2's should throw better than XP-G2's, but you can driver the XP-G2's at higher amps. So all depends what amps you are driving them at. What amps is your UF T20 at?
i use the east 92 from fasttech with spring mod /22 awg
treath driver to star are the Original 14 awg ?i think or so
Ohh - so you didn't measure amps? An East-092 is all over the place in amps, depending on the cell. Ok - can't say for sure, but think you are getting the same amps between the XP-G2 and XP-E2, and probably low, like in the 2-2.5A range, so the XP-E2 should throw better. Using a low resistance cell like a Sam 20R, should result in higher amps with the XP-G2. Lots of possibilities here...
i use the 3 Amp drivers nanjg,qlittle & the east 92.
i must say if i swits from 3Amp to east 92 it is almost brighter( pan 3400 protected or lg d1 cells @ i4 jetbeam charger) they give me the same brightness
i have not a Amp /voltmeter :zipper_mouth_face: i see holong i can shine with the batteries and how hot my flashlight coming :nerd_face:
it must be higher than 3 Amp,not 2-2,5
Those are high resistance cells. An XP-E2 gets max output at about 2.5A on copper - after that, stays the same than starts getting less.
for what I know Mr.Tom E… you know it much better than me, I’m sure.
I think that the more xpe2 trow shows and more cold white color is so visually more light in this case?
I might just take another pill with xpg2 S
the last was the R5
but if I use it with eg 10-12x 7135 380A for xpg2 a driver so I would sit optimally?
and for xpe2 a driver with 8 or 9x 380A something more to give, but at the extreme limit and of course faster hot?
ps: (UF T20 flashlight)
greet
Hi penumbra.
I think an XP-E2 might work nicely. The hot spot is in this light is kind of big. So the light would probably still pretty usable with that smaller emitter.
I think XPG seems like a much better match for this light though. I just modded my B-650 with a XP-G2 here and like the beam profile much better now. At 3.3 amps, it more than tripled throw from stock. I would like to get it up to 5 amps.
maybe i have my send nits next week.
it seems to me at this flashlight beam that runs right prettier than the UF t20
the uf t20 he runs fast wider.
further it’s time that I learn fotos put here H)
Best wishes on your light. Please make a mod thread for it if you change it. I will try to answer any questions you may have.
thank you for help&questions …but i have one lettre yesterday it is on customs claerance en the post want money |(