If the batteries are to long I would suggest that this will cause a problem pushing on the driver. When the batteries are placed in the tube and they came level with the end (using protected batteries) I had a similar problem. The threads are anodised so for a proper connection the ends should have to be screwed all the way down. It may be shorting on the led. Try unscrewing the lens slightly as this will move the reflector away from the led.
What batteries were you using and what batteries do you use now?
I am using King Kong non protected with the supplied small magnet between them, about 1 mm in thickness.
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-kingkong-icr26650e-4000mah-liion-battery-p-136.html
These sat aprox 3mm below the top of the battery holder. Any batteries that sat higher would not work. It seemed that it would distort the driver causing a malfunction. If E has put the same driver as Foys in yours I would suggest that battery length would be even more critical as you will only have the spring on the tailcap end.
If you leave the tailcap off and run a wire from the negative end of the battery to the outer tube and hold slight pressure, does it work without fault?
If i run a wire from the end of the tube to the end of the battery it works without fault. The more i fiddle with this the more it seems to be the connection with the tailcap and the end of the tube. I am using flat top king kongs with a magnet as well.
How far do the batteries sit down from the top of the battery tube?
I havent measured exactly but the picture foy has on page one looks indentical.
I used some protected Trustfire Flame 18650s with the supplied spacer tubes. I ran the light for over an hour it’s wicked impressive.
If there is a problem in the switch 9 times out of 10 I have fixed switches by squirting a small amount of this product in them. May work?
byarnell05 -
My JM05 is super picky about battery placement . . . . too snug against the driver or tight against the tail cap and it doesn't seem to work. At one point, I actually thought I had a failed switch and swapped it out. (switch was fine) Remove the head and with your fingers, gently try to turn the pill/driver to just a little snug against the reflector. If that doesn't work, back it out a little and try it, possibly back it out again. What you're trying to do is get it just right between the pill and the tail cap spring.
All of my 26650 batteries are King Kong flat-tops. If I use a particular two of them, the light will only work without a magnet . . . . another two and it will not work unless I use a magnet.
Also, make sure the tail cap locking ring is tight. (inside the tail cap, with two dimples for unscrewing) Sometimes it loosens a bit each time the tail cap is unscrewed.
Foy
Thanks Foy,
I have begun to notice some of the things you just mentioned. I am able to get the light to work but like you said it is very picky! Thanks everyone for all your help. Btw this thing is ridiculous! I played around a bit at night the other night but im looking forward to really being able to test it out.
It's a killer flashlight. I was surprised how well it throws.
JM05feverFoy
This is my first 26650 light and I really like the larger size. I can’t wait to see if Erik can mod the other 26650 light I had sent to him.
What did you send him?
Foy
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/lxp-2126650-xml-u2-flashlight-p-413.html
Hopefully he can put in one of his 5 mode no flashy 3.5A drivers. The only sad thing is I went out on a limb buying this light and just a couple days ago I read Old-lumens review of the host version of this light found on CNQ and he wasn’t too impressed with it. I hope this one is of better quality. If not oh well i guess. You win some you lose some.
I concur with what Foy has said except i have never had a problem with the tailcap locking ring coming loose. You have said your light works fine by jumping from the earth on the end battery to the outer housing, the next step would be to check the switch with a multi meter. Its not hard to do if you have a meter or a mate might be able to do it for you if you dont. If that checks out ok it comes back to what Foy has said above. Good luck
3-7-13 update
My E1320 upgraded JM05 continues to perform and never fails to impress. It is one the most powerful flashlights I own and probably the best C8 thrower I have. I also love the run-time with two 26650s.
stillawesomeFoy
Hi Foy. I concur with your sentiments. Mines also going strong and is at the moment the most practical light I have. Its been dropped, abused and the head has a fair bit of damage to it. I cannot remember this happening. It was one of those nights when to many beverages must have been consumed. Good to see you back. Cheers.
This is my first post. Would comparable results be expected if you did the same mods to a JM05 clone since the original Shadow build stock seems to be depleted or at best unavailable. The reason being I have two of these clones about and even the stock clones are surprisingly bright with KK’s. I usually repair GPS units for resale and have a room full of spares, parts, reflowing and test equp. for that. I’m not expecting a road trip into illumination to be that technically challenging of an endeavor from a sourcing or soldering standpoint. I am acquainted with the binning and shipping vagaries of the Pacific rim supply chain. Too acquainted, perhaps.
If you're doing a driver swap and it has a decent XM-L emitter, shouldn't be anything at all wrong with a clone. Somebody around here a while back got one, the name started with a D? (I think) Can't remember . . .
toomuchwackytabbackywhenyoungFoy
I wouldn’t recommend the JM05 clone, I’ve got one and it has a list of manufacturing faults, the biggest being very loose threads around the pill meaning poor heat dissipation.
Here’s a thread on it:
I’ve heard the same issues for the 2 cell version also, so all the clones probably have the same issues.