not exactly the official 18350 tube sold by wurkkos, just swapped out the tube with a ts11’s. Should give the same general idea though
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I’m pushing it now, but would they both have similar throw/beam pattern (with 519A)?
Yes, they are indeed different. The new one (“B1” with 519A) has an extra SOT23 and two resistors compared to the old one (“B0” with SST-40). Maybe reverse polarity protection?
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Just a quick PSA that there’s also a version with Anduril now: Sofirn SC13A
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Got a question - is it possible to get to the LED in this light without destroying something?
You could try to push a blade between the bezel and the head.
Not exactly sure what You mean. The SC13 doesn’t have a bezel, at least mine, only the tail can be unscrewed but I don’t see anything obvious inside that would release the whole pill
Edit: After a closer look it seems I might be wrong, there actually seems to be a bezel, though not sure how removable it is :D. I’ll try unscrewing it first, I’ll let You know if I’m able to get anywhere ^^
it is press fit
you would have to pry it out and that is hard to do without marking the metal…
I polished the bezel to hide the screwdriver marks:
Suprisingly, despite many hammer blows, the light still works, and the body did not break. The bezel is very thick… but its not a mod I would recommend doing with brute force using hammer and screwdrivers… the way I did it 
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Ooof, that’s a lotta damage 
Was it purely press fit or was there glue?
I’m wondering if there’s anything that is soft enough not to ruin the bezel yet sturdy enough to provide the necessary leverage…
no glue, just very tight and deep press fit bezel… It does not pop out easily, the way an Olight or Zebra bezel does.
I do not recommend opening the SC13, unless you accept there will be visible scars from the operation.
If you are interested in a light that has similar features and is easy to open I suggest a Sofirn SC21 Pro. The bezel unscrews without damage.
Why do you want to open the SC13?
Just wanted to dedome the 519A inside my SC13A (SC13PRO) to get a bit lower CCT and more throw. But I can easily live with the light as is, was just looking for a quick and easy mod and this seems like the opposite
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Well, since it seems my SC13Pro(or arecthey calling it SC13A. I lost track) is not lost after all (disappeared between leaving China and Entering the US for 28 days… customs lost it?, but is moving again now), I’d like to be ready when it arrives…
Has anyone checked the threads at the tail cap, to see if it will Lego with other caps from Wurrkos/ Sofirn 18mm lights?
Or barring that, would any of you fine gentlemen happen to have a thread pitch gauge to measure the threads? And maybe a OD of the body threads?
I could moddify my 3D printed tail caps to fit it and be ready when it arrives.
Any info much appreciated! 
Can someone confirm: all versions of SC13 are not regulated?
How do you make them conductive?
Correct. At least at their maximum brightness. Depending on the model, lower brightness might use a 7135 linear regulator with PWM (SC13A).
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WK03, FC11, SP40 caps work. But the placement of the batteries and therefore the height of caps differ. On non SC13 caps the spring sits deeper. The light still turns on.
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For lights with a spring at the head, a USA penny(mostly copper) and a small magnet. Magnet makes the battery a “button bottom”.
Cap has a recess pocket for large tail magnet, and a stepped rim around this, I stack big magnet, a plastic spacer so tail magnet has no voltage-- pointless but seemed like a good idea.-- the coin sits on that, that the body tube screws against. Little magnet in the center and against the battery.
No head spring and I stack the stock tail spring in instead of the magnet. Or not, and still use a magnet but tolerances get critical to not rattle or worse dent the battery…
I have always planned to cut copper discs from sheet stock and solder a spring or contact stud on, buy I’m lazy, for 2 years the magnet and penny has worked. Have used nickels too, the diameter is better.
I’ve intended to put the files on Printables, but never get around to it, there’s always another project lol.
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Ah! Perfect! THANK YOU!!
My existing caps should all fit then.
Makes it so much simpler to not have to model and test fit a new thread standard. All the rest is deathly easy to change, ie, to get the depth right.
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