Thanks very much for checking and the review.
The batteries I have are almost 71.5 mm long - button top keeppower.
Might be worth buying it because it seems pretty nifty for the price.
Got mine in today. This thing is sweet…. There is some visible PWM, but not as bad as some lights I have had. I will check it out further in the dark tonight, that is when the PWM really drives me nuts.
I would say the tint is close to 2B and quite pleasant for a budget CW. The switch is freaking cool…. I took the light apart, plenty of easy times for spring bypass and other easy mods. Now we need someone with mag switch experience to tell us how to rid it of the PWM… or be able to hook up another driver to the switch…
Here are some pics.
The star is 1.6mm thick, same as a Noctigon. I wonder how easy this would be to convert to a triple or quad with a mag switch… man that would be cool.
I really like this light for this money. The triple AAA holders that are longer work fine in the light in an emergency… Pretty sure you could squeeze even a 26700 in this…
Thanks for finding this OrionLight!
Thanks Orion for the review and ReManG for the driver pics. The spring looks pretty hefty judging by the picture….
It is… Plenty of spring on both ends.
It has a high standby drain of around 4ma, the tailcap does lock it out, but this is a byproduct of the mag switch it seems. Still over a month before drain in a 3500mah 26650…
Pretty sure I have found my new car light with this one. Locked out it will have good storage time, easy to use, 26650 runtime…
Thanks for the driver pics and measurements ReManG! I’m glad someone else more experienced than me was able to get more details out of this flashlight. I’ve only changed the batteries once since I’ve had it, using it around the house and as a nightstand light. It has edged out my EA21 as the nightstand light because it can go even lower than the red LED.
How did you find the waterproofing in the bezel/lens? I’m thinking of getting this light for snorkeling.
The glass is at least 2.1mm thick… There is a generous O-ring behind the glass that fully seals the head. The head and body are one piece, so with the mag switch and the beefy o ring up front and the double o ring in the back, snorkeling to 30+ feet should not pose an issue…
This looks like a great boat/fishing/water sport light in general, just remember to lock it out for storage… This is the tiny prices to pay for a mag switch with no through hole in the body…
Awesome! Then that sealed (ehh?) the deal! Just placed an order. Great review also!
That mag switch is really nice feature. I got this one a while back FandyFire LW-12 Diving light
I’ve been using this light a lot just because of the infinite adjustment.
The light came in today and I’m super impressed. The anodizing is absolutely flawless, and very nice! It’s up there with the Eagle Eye X6 ano. Can’t wait to use it this summer underwater! Thanks for the review! I just wish the switch didn’t have a deadzone to it. About a fourth of the switch distance doesn’t do anything.
Also, the collar under the switch can be unscrewed. I imagine it’s to clean the sliding switch if there’s any sand stuck.
That’s a good point. I didn’t even think about that. I would say it’s less than a fourth, but the first portion of the switch is definitely a deadzone.
Happy to do the review!
Could anyone tell me if it is possible to change the emitter to XPL Hi (and if so would it be better with it?)
I tried a Nichia 219B and the light would not shut off. I believe the emitter Vf (forward voltage) has to be close to the XM-L2 for the driver with the mag switch to work properly.
That said, I did successful put a XM-L2 7A3 emitter in, and the switch works with this. The XPL is a XM-L2 on a smaller footprint, so I would say it should work. Get the emitter on a 20mm star, then it is a quick change out to try….
Let us know how it works.
Thanks my friend
I will probably give it a try
I recently purchased one of these light and I’m disappointed with the low mode. It doesn’t go lower than about 30 lumens and seems to go higher than 800. Perhaps Starrylight has made some changes.
Mike
That’s disappointing. If you slowly inch your way up on the switch, what’s the approximate lumen level? It’s just surprising because this light produces the lowest low out of all my lights.
From off, if I slowly move the switch, the first light that I get is about 30 lumens. I really wanted a lot lower than that, so I guess that I’ll return the light.
Mike
I get the same when turning the light on, it has a dead-band of no response when turning it on for the first 25% of the range…,. The ultra low modes are when turning it off, draw that switch back slowly and you can get some lower than firefly modes out of this light. I think the driver has a current going through it and this is the large standby drain, try moving the switch forward faster, but not as far, this may jar the light into turning on earlier in lower modes.
KD has it:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024186.D186-Cree-XM-L2-U2-1200-Lumens-Diving-LED-Flashlight-Black
Pity about the PWM, i hate visible PWM too.
How to get rid of it?
(I would think one of the capacitors decides the PWM frequency.)
In case anyone’s thinking of it, it’s the same(?) as the UF DV-S9 which I looooooove. (See my gushing over this light in its own thread. Ultrafire DV-S9 diving light? )
Don’t do a “leave it and forget until you need it” on this light, though. The magnetic switch (Hall-effect IC) has a 10mA (exactly) parasitic drain, so do a TCLO (tailcap-lockout) on it. ¼-turn is plenty.