I just took another look at the head on mine and noticed I too have one different to the photos on Manafont and benckie's first post in this thread. The reflector on mine comes right up to the lens (which is glass btw), like Zardon's, whereas the one displayed on Manafont shows what looks like a bit of aluminum between the reflector and bezel. Although, mine does have 7 fins on the neck, just like the original.
And the actual screw-in has two fins, whereas the photo in posts #310 & #321 show three.
I'm still quite pleased with what I got, but I just hope I'm not missing out on any lumens/throw compared to the original.
Hello!
I got my Trustfire 3T6 from seller kittime_hk from ebay.
I can confirm it is the original, it has the sticker inside. It has 7 gaps on the reflector head. Works great, came with a couple of small scratches but not bad. Also, in the picture you can see it looks to be the 2 x 18650 model and in the description it says it's the 3 x 18650, I thought it's a scam BUT it is the 3 x 18650 model, which is great.
Aorund 1, 45 on high with fresh batteries (3 batt.). It's very bright. Where it should be 2 silicone o-rings it was only 1 everywhere, but I had some spare ones so... As for the runtime, I've tested it with 3 x Trustfire 2400 (flames) on MID, it stays fully light for about 3 hours. It's pretty good. It goes off instantly because one of the batteries shuts off for protection.
Now, I have a problem, dumb as I am, first day I got it I screwed the head to much and a few minutes later it broke the glass lense. So, don't screw it to much. I measured it and it has around 52 mm, I found on dealextreme some 52.8 mm lense, I wonder if it would fit. Any sugestions?
Sorry for any grammatical mistakes.
Hi Ionescu Liviu,
If anyone on DX states that that lens fits in a MagLite D-Cell light (with no modding), then it will fit your 3T6. I ordered a UCL lens for my 3T6, which is specifically designed for a MagLite D and it fits perfectly.
I got my "52.1 mm x 1.85 mm" UCL lens from flashlightlens.com but they are currently out of stock right now...
============================================================
52.1mm
|
Maglite® C&D MagCharger LEDBEAM 3-C Solarforce Masterpiece Pro 1 (NOTE!) |
1.85mm
|
UCL® v.2 | Yes | 99% |
============================================================
I tested a little bit how much current flows through the tailcap. With 3 cells on high I got ~1,8A. With 2 cells ~4,2A, this seems quite a high. :O
Maybe you tested them in two different modes? Perhaps your 3 cell test was in MED while your two cell test was in HI? Or it's possible one of your cells has a very high internal resistance. You could try the same tests using different combinations of 2 cells at a time to see if that varies...
3x4.2=12.6 ...(x1.8)= 22.68W
2x4.2=8.4 ...(x4.2)= 35.28W
So something is definitely not right.
one the torch from the orginal post im only getting 2.39 amps on two of these Panasonic NCR18650A 4.2 amps is a bit up there
Thanks <Rezolution>!
<Zardon> You need to make sure your cells are at the same percentage of charge, and at aproximetly the same voltage. (it kinda means the same thing). Maybe you've had one cell fully charged and the other 2 not fully charged, and maybe you've measured the two ones with lower charge percentage and lower voltage.
Also I suggest not use different batteries, for example 2 Trustfires with flames and some other brand, use same brand and model. Also it should be used 3 batteries of same age, it's not good combining 2 new batteries with one that's older (lets say 2 years) because it will probably not hold the charge like the new ones.
Later edit. My flashlight is on for 30 minutes now, on HIGH, with 3 fully charged trustfire flames batteries, indoor. There are 22° Celsius in my room, I'm reading the flashlight temperature with a laser thermometer. I'm reading 53°C on the fins/head of the flashlight and around 72°C pointing to the LED's thru the glass lense. The flashlight is sitting upward towards the ceiling, It wasn't in my hand, I'll turn it off and wait to cool down. It doesn't seem to go higher than this.The handle is around 40°C.
If you would hold it in your hands it might be cooler than just sitting alone.
I hope this kind of temperatures doesn't affect he LED's. I've read that for an "Cree® XLamp® XM-L LEDs" <Maximum junction
temperature: 150 °C> but I think that over 100°C things are already out of control. lol
I wanna note that my thermometer is a 10$ one, a bit crappy, it's just to make an idea. It could be +/-2 degrees Celsius error.
What do you guys think, are these temperatures ok or the LED's are having a hard time? Even the li-ion batteries can't be to pleasant with these temperatures, unfortunately I haven't measured them but the handle was around 40°C so... In a real life situation you probably will hold it in you hands and outside where there might be better cooling (at least a bit of air wind compared to indoor). Anyway at this amount of light MID is usually fine, sometimes going for HIGH, the only con is that you have to go thru disco modes to get there. lol
To make an idea, before shutting it down holding the reflector was kinda painful, almost impossible.
Benckie, you said you took long walks outside on HIGH, how did you felt the temperature of the reflector? Was it hard to hold it by the reflector or just warm?
i found the refector to be warm at best with longer runs then that, but thats while out side walking around sort of activer cooling, the refector by the time ive unscrewed it and hold it in my hand its normaly cooler then the fin,s and your temp gun will give higher readings throught the glass as the led,s emmit a fair bit of heat out into the glass and though it, in my opinion since the TR-3T6 has good cooling via multible head contrac,s with the srew in and lots of threads the temp of yours is fine and the li-on batteries have no problem running in the 40 + degree C range.
Hi guys. I've just read the crap out of this thread. Been researching in general for the last 24 hours straight, my mind is close to mush. Didn't know anything about torches these days honestly as of yesterday, but I do have some knowledge of electricity ( a 2-year degree in electrical tech.) There are so many similar Chinese made lights it's mind-blowing.
I'm looking for a light for less than $60 US.
Looking for these almost MUST-HAVE features:
Adjustable beam size (zoomable), At least 1 XM-L emitter, Decent build quality.
Preferable features: Regulated, 3 modes, non-bluish light, good throw without much spill bleeding
Also, if I were to get this light, the TR-3T6, (which I know doesn't have adjustable beam), could I use 2 IMR 18650s without blowing anything? I know it's risky with single 18650 applications but with two cell's current divided among the 3 emitters, could I get more light out of her this way?
Thanks, I am VERY appreciative! And sorry to thread-jack, but the OP was appeased long ago I think.
Welcome neumei626
It has the most of the features what u wanted but like-
1>XML
2>Zoomable Option
3>By reading the reviews from Manafont it is clear the build quality is good.
4>Good throw without much spill due to optic but the spot will be more like square looking( rememember XML leds are more of a flooder)
5> for less than $60 US
Exceptions:-
1>5 modes(Most Chineese manufaturerers uses 5 mode version drivers 3 mode is a rare thing)
2>I don't know if it will be in other than blue tint or not,but manufacturers sells the flashlights on the basis of lumen factor,'Cool white' tint produces the max light output in typical condition,for confirming check the cree site ie;Order Code-XMLAWT-00-0000-0000T6051,so it has high possibilty that ull get a cool white tint Led.
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Tf3t6 is sold in only 2 cell & 3 cell version,running in 1 cell is not appropriate but will still lit up Tf3t6.No visible light output differences can be noticeable in 2 cell & 3 cell version atleast I can't,in 3 cell u ll get more runtime that's it.I prefer a 3cell cuz its more versatile & more applicable in real world.
Thanks for the info man. Funny, At the end it was between the two you are talking about. The Z5 or the 3T6. Very different lights I know, and maybe I will still buy the Z5 for kicks, someday, but I bought the 3T6. Bought it from a guy in Brooklyn on ebay. It's only two cell, and that's fine with me. VERY glad to know you don't see a light difference by adding a third. I had heard that elsewhere as well, and it was the thing that allowed me to click "buy now."
Since I am assuming it's power regulated anyway, it would just draw more current from 2 cells than 3 cells to make up for the lack of the extra 4.2V. Hopefully an exact ratio, such as 2.4A on 2 cells, 1.6A on 3 cells. What I'm confused about though is how the heck this thing gets supposedly gets to 4 times the lumen level of a single XM-L, dual 18650 torch. Unless it's drawing 4 times more current, it doesn't make much sense.
I'll tell you what the world of torches is a freakin' snake pit. You wouldn't think it could get so in depth! It's just an LED, a power supply, a switch and a tube for God's sake. (And a reflector, resistors, caps, inductors, diodes, solder and a PCB but who's counting.)
At least I will be receiving my light within about 3 days rather than 2 weeks if I bought from Mana. Had some black Trsusty flames expedited here so I'll be at it soon! I only live about 350 miles from Brooklyn so that guy was the perfect seller for me. I just hope my new 3T6 is as bright as some of the sky ray x3 XM-Ls I saw on youtube. They seemed a little brighter than comparable 3T6 vids I saw.
That's why I kinda wanted to get IMRs, to even the playing field, but I just didn't know what those would do to my new toy. I am guessing though that with the regulation the IMRs would only overheat the regulator and it's heatsink. Unless it's only voltage regulated, in which case the IMRs would have a large impact on luminosity.
Thanks again.
The original TR-3T6 is regulated so not sure if the IMR's would give you any more then 2.5 amps on the two cell or 3 amps on the 3 cell version.
There was an eBay seller from Brooklyn selling fake TR-3T6 there was a link on the thread post number 135 I think it was.
It is a snake pit as you have to be careful where you buy batteries and torches as there is alot of fakes out there and under performing batteries.
Ehh....i finally killed one of the LEDs in the Sky Ray 3800 (with DRY driver, that one guns the LEDs hardcore). Was in strobe mode and it finally died. Will need to swap it out with a 16mm MCPCB XM-L, not too difficult...i already disassembled it.
Well my heart just dropped when I read that. How can ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS not have edited his first post to say DO NOT BUY THIS?
Of all the damn threads I read during those 36 hours of researching I can't believe I didn't read a few posts further in that thread. I had read about 15-20 posts in. I just assumed if there were a problem that the mod or OP would have deleted the link or the OP would edit in a warning. That thread is the only reason I went to yallstore to begin with. Was about to buy from manafont and at the last minute I saw that thread. I just heard people in there saying, "Well if you live in the US, go for it due to fast shipping times. Otherwise not a great deal."
I haven't ordered anything on ebay in like a year at least for this reason.
So.... can I just refuse delivery even if it comes USPS?
Sorry I'm just all worked up right now. So upset I spent all that time reading about lights just to get ripped off. If I had just read a few more posts....
Ok, i'll send ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS a post to edit the title.
Thank you on behalf of anyone else who this might happen to. Kind of a silly thing really, if I had just read a couple more posts... lol. Funny thing is I somehow thought I had read the whole thing.
Just hope I can get my money back. Looks like the thing to do it ask the seller first rather than go straight to ebay/paypal channels. Just trying to think of how I should phrase it to get the best possible outcome. Like maybe not have to deal with sending it back at all :)
I just ordered the real deal from manafont, just hope it gets here by the 25th.
Benckie, what happened to Australia this "summer"? My friend in Sydney said temperatures dipped to 10 deg C with hailstones over the weekend. Perth is a low of 16 deg C at night!
Still good for DRY turbo usage... heh.
It's also a bit cooler this year. It got to about 25-26 deg C just few days ago at night, pretty cooling in our standards.....and i was shivering already after i got out of the shower.
There weather has gone to the dogs, it was 30 plus the other day but it's been cold and raining for 2 days now, I'm on the other side of Australia to you friend but this time of year it is normaly hot day and night, a couple of weeks back we had a nice run of hot days and nights.
The reason for the cold weather is Perth has been hit by a cold front they had pritty bad storms there and they coped it last night places around Perth coped 120 to 150 mm of rain last night and strong winds, thats alot of rain for perth.
I dont live near Perth but we had has some of the same weather just not as bad i heard on the radio today emergency services around Perth were over loaded last night and there was alot of flooding and tree damage
Tested now with full charged 4.20V batteries, got following readings:
2 batteries HI/MED/LOW: 2.60V/1.05V/0.28V
3 batteries HI/MED/LOW: 1.55V/0.66V/0.18V
Why was my previous amperes so high with ~3.85V batteries?
Just got my 3T6 from yallstore on ebay. It doesn't look anything like the fake 3T6 that monanoke posted, and in fact looks like it is the same light that zardon posted. It is even a 3 cell light although it was advertised as a 2. 8 gaps in the heatsink fins, sticker inside on the dropin.
Problem is, I went to fire it up in two cell mode with my protected trustfire flames, freshly purchased from an American e cig dealer and freshly charged, and no light came out of the 3T6. So I quickly unscrew the endcap, and the 18650s are very warm and there's a funky burning smell. I had put the negative batt end against the spring towards the front and the positive end on the bronze nipple of the endcap. I assume they didn't change this right? Every electronic device I've ever seen has had the spring correspond to the negative side of the batteries. Although every flashlight I've seen has had the positive end facing the front/LED so it's strange to me.
Even now the light tube, and batts have a distinct burnt smell to them.
So is my light/batts toast you think?