No not really as the dry driver is 2.25 amps on high, since the TR-3T6 is wired in parallel this would give 0.75 amp per led, or for a silly 20 second only blast on turbo 1.33 to 1.66 amps per led.
The standard TR-3T6 driver is 5.6 amps 1.86 amps per led. Now a 20 second turbo mode to me is useless but lets say we did it and rewired all the LED's in series, then each led now would get 2.25 amps Min's loss and soldering and 4 to 5 amps on turbo over driving the led,s by 1 to 2 amps for 20 seconds.
Now if we where to do the resistor mod this would give use around 11.2 amps 3.7 amps per led it would be a bit lower due to losses in the system but it would stay brighter for longer then the dry driver as with out turbo what ever way you look at it the dry driver is not that special in this case.
Even if you re wired all the LEDs in series the gain using the dry driver would be 0.39 amp per led over the standard TR-3T6 not really enough for the human eye to tell amongst all that flood, but you would have a turbo mode for 20 seconds to show off.
But the modded TR-3T6 driver with 3.74 amps per led on high is better then the dry driver with 2.25 amps per led and just by modding the TR-3T6 with a 50 cent resistor, even if you include the 20 second gain from the dry driver you would only gain 0.3 amps or if your lucky maybe up to 1.3 amps for just 20 seconds and you would have to rewire the 3 LEDs in the TR-3T6.
Now we get down to the difference in driver size the dry driver is almost 3mm smaller then the TR-3T6 driver plus the hassle of rewiring all 3 LEDs for no gain on high at all in fact you will loose 1.5 amps per led on high and a very small gain for 20 seconds on turbo mode, i think your much better off doing the resistor mod as you get more current for longer and it will produce more lumen's over 1 min then the dry driver will.
I would treat the TR-3T6 with a resistor added as high mode as turbo, medium mode as high and low mode as a low/mid and would not use strobe or sos for to long. I think it would be much simpler to do the resistor mod, but the reason why the TR-3T6 was so attractive at the start was it could handle long run times, long battery life and great heat sinking a practicable light for the long haul (goggle the word practicable).
I think the TR-3T6 has the heat sinking to do this resistor mod and you would need 3 batteries to get get any decent run time approx an hour on good cells. but if i did this mod i would not gun it on high for as long as i used to and you would not have to with 50% more power, but no doubt i would any way food for thought.
I still would get one of these as a back up Replacement TR-3T6 Driver as i rather have a working TR-3T6 then a not working one just in case it goes south.
Now if you wired all the LEDs in series and use the standard TR-3T6 driver as it is then you would get 5.6 amps per led, or if you did the resistor mod 11.2 amps per led, but i do not know for how long of if it would work, I'm sure the Germans have already tried it and the resistor mod is most likely the safest and easiest.
All numbers and figures are APPROX