Sorry for the delay in response, guys. Haven’t had easy access the last couple days.
My measurements are with 3 cells, not 2. I’ve been working with Rezolution over this via PM. His TR-3T6 is just like mine but stock. He is pulling 1.54A with 3 cells and a stock driver so there is definitely a difference after doing this mod. It’s just not an extremely dramatic bump but it does put the TR-3T6 squarely in the pack with the King and the DRY.
I have one of these lights and was not very impressed first time I went to try it…it would not light up, just flicker. Anyhoo I burned the driver in it it seems as I could smell burnt. Order a new head and it works, nice output but I’m sure it is nowhere near what they claim…still.
Now since I have a spare head where exactly should I buy parts/driver for it? This could be my first attempt at modding a light.
Ok, then the mod is fully managed and worked as on my TR-3T6. Cause of my bad English I do not understand if you’re satisfied with your job or if you are disappointed, sorry. It seems to me that the increase in brightness is great, give me some advice, thanks. If you also have evidence of how hot after 10 minutes in hi mode, and a measure of how absorbs at mid mode.
Thanks again for the help in experiment.
I’m actually very satisfied with it. I just had the impression I was going to see 3-3.5A instead of 2.56A. It’s as bright as my King now and that’s nothing to sneeze at for a $2 mod. Thanks to its excellent heat management I have no worries about extended use and highly recommend you give it a go! 8)
You would have to re wire all the LED’s from parallel to series and it looks like the driver will not fit with out a bit of modification as it is approx 4 to 5mm to slim to make contact with the back of the screw in base and solder points, but you have enough space to fit it inside the screw in no problem, just 4 to 5 mm short on the solder and screw in contact points.
Very well, I’m happy that you have given good results.
It seems to me that after the mod, in Med mode, has the same brightness as before in Hi. Basically you lose the low mode and you get a Turbo mode.
Last night with ambient temperature of 23 ° I maintained the maximum brightness for 20 minutes, to touch the temperature remains the same as that reached after 10 minutes, then could perhaps be maintained for a long period without damaging the LEDs.
From the technical characteristics of CREE industry, the maximum current for the LEDs XML-T6, is shown in 3 amps, then go with a mod to 2.2 amps (6,6 amps divided by 3 leds) should leave ample margin of safety.
My 2 cell 3T6 drew 2.25 amps on high before modding. R5 + R7 was 0.05 ohms.
After paralleling the 0.1 ohm resistor with R5 and R7 to get 0.0333 ohms, the tail cap current draw went up to 4.0A-high, 1.7A-medium, and 0.38A on low.
I have the batteries (2 cell) fully charged and the light barely lights up. If I shake it some it kinda flickers but no where near the brightness it should be. I’ve tried switching out the batteries with my dads and changing the tail cap and nothing works. Please help