I have one of the 4A versions with only a single R050 resistor. What would i need to add to get around 6-7A?
Could you please take some pictures of your driver and check if there are any numbers on it?
You need to know the actual current through the emitter to calculate the resistor:
(Current*resistance)÷(new smaller resistance)=approximated current
(4×0.05)÷(1÷(1÷0.05+1÷0.1))=6A
(4.5×0.05)÷(1÷(1÷0.05+1÷0.1))=6.75A
(5×0.05)÷(1÷(1÷0.05+1÷0.1))=7.5A
So one 0.1 ohm resistor should be what you want…
The most of this 3T6 two board drivers have around 4.3-4.6A.
I get a little over 4A at the tail using 2x18650. I have a couple random resistors laying around, how is the .1 ohm resistor marked? R100 etc…
http://www.amazon.com/TrustFire-Bright-TR-3T6-Lumens-Flashlight/dp/B0065AA7UW
Just noticed $23 Amazon Prime (It was $21 a week ago, but I missed that). Contemplating getting one for my first multi-emitter stock.
Looks like a 2-cell version, may only have an 8.4V driver. 
Amazon lumps all the reviews of clones together, you have to read between the lines. In fact, clicking on your link it says "You purchased this item on September 06, 2013." I don't think so.
I have a great one from Amazon It came from the 'yesdigi' vendor.
Hmm never thought of it like that. There are definitely mixed reviews though so it seems some of the vendors are shipping the wrong version (listing shows 2 cell). Some say they got the extension and presumably the 3 cell driver. I figured since its prime I’d return it if it lacked the 3 cells.
Could try Amazon.com shows 3 cell for $25 still prime (and you save $85 :D).
Edit: the $25 reviews/questions seem more hit than miss as far as receiving the extend tube.
There are 36 vendors selling this light on Amazon. You gotta select the one you want.
Just remember the pill and driver are different than a real 3T6, and my driver pooped out after a cumulative 2 hours of use.
There seem to be just clones out there. But if you can send it back that’s no problem.
You could also ask the seller for a photo of the driver…
23$ including shipping from amazon is a very good price…
Hi everybody!!! How can i take off strobe and sos mode? Does anyone know?
Lol, if you have to ask this question it will not be possible for you to remove the modes.
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I now have 18500, bad sadly only unprotected batteries will fit. The keepower protected are too long. The unprotected sanyos from fastech fit and make a nice short light.
Gogosmama wrote:
Hi everybody!!!!! How can i take off strobe and sos mode? Does anyone know?
Welcome to the forum Gogo. That is the $64,000 question. Many members would love to get rid of the flashy modes on this driver because it is a very good driver. No one has figured out how yet as far as I know of, at least.
The good news is that the driver has last-mode memory. So you don't have to change modes if you have one favorite mode. I like having stobe and sos available and don't mind doing 3 or 4 fast half clicks to get to a different mode when needed.
Hmmmm… you mean that I can’t do it or it can’t be done? Can i replace it with some other circuit board with one mode?
Thanks ImA4Wheelr,
I know that, but my dad can’t understand the last-mode memory trick and he is only 75 years old…….!!!
you owe me 64k…. 
I just found out how to change modes on this beauty….
There was nothing on tv so I decided to go in the cellar and look how my 3T6 driver looks like. I measured and inspected the electric paths…and I found a suspicious line from the part what I thought is the controller to the part which I thought is the current control IC.
Hooked up my oscillograph and bam I was right all 5modes spotable.
I cut the line and soldered my test tiny Pwm output on it, all modes work flawlessly from low low till high….
Look at the cutted line:
If the upper part gets connected to Voltage supply of the Controller it is always high, if you connect a Pwm signal you can get modes.
Welldone Werner, good job!!! Give us your PayPal account to donate for your success investigation and soon you gonna get 64k…!!! Many members will be happy without those strobe modes. But i couldn’t understant which line i should cut and which point i have to conect black and red wires. What VCC is? Could you be more specify, please.
Do you see the cutted trace? The upper part is the input pin of the current regulator.
If you solder a wire to the upper part and connect it to the positive pin of the controller it will give you full regulated current through the LEDs. No modes.
I haven’t tested it for more than 20 seconds but I could do it, I also could post a picture of a wire if you like to.
VCC I won’t do that anymore from now on I say V+ Or positive supply voltage.
If you want custom modes not just high it would be more complicated, I have some parts in progress(will take 3weeks at least)which will make it easier for everyone who can solder a bit.
If someone has a driver on which you still can read the writings on the IC please make a picture. Mine are all grinded away.
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Edit:
This is how to make it one mode only:
Cut the trace of the Pwm signal and grind a bit of the green stop mask away:
Solder a wire on the grinded spot,or on the resistor which is a few mm above the cut. Make sure you don’t short something while doing it.
Solder the other end to this spot, it has +5V
The wire I used is a bit long and ugly(was just laying around), you should make it more clean.
A photo with the wires conected on the board would be the best explanation for that discasion.Photo would help much more…Thanks!!!
Ηι Werner, Thanks for the useful information, but could you please upload the photo with the conections again, because we cant’t see it?