What is it about us torch freaks that makes us want to push our poor little XM-L emitters to their very limits? If we’re doing a good 3.5A with an HD2010, isn’t that like 700 lumens in an XM-L T6?
If we hit closer to 900LM at near 5A with a 26650, I would hope we’d notice a difference. But really - is it useful difference? Do I really need to prove the XM-L will do the 1100LM limit it’s been tested at? No. Haha. This HD2010 doesn’t more than it needs to, and direct drive is inefficient when it comes to 5 amps anyway. I am learning that a well managed driver is more important because it also supports better run times.
It’s hilarious, because as much as I love this torch, I can’t even imagine a practical need for it to be brighter than it already is. I mean, the WOW factor and impressing my friends can be accomplished with my SF L2T, and lately the TF Mini-01.
I know that there’s so many on BLF who actually USE their lights on a regular basis for work or whatever. But it seems the addicts end up with so much more than they’ll ever use - and I already have, just in the last couple months. The HD is the pinnacle marker of this sickness. I had a few staple torches, and I needed a dedicated thrower. Didn’t I?
Match did a graph a while back that clearly showed minimal gains above around 3.5 amps for an XM-L so, you're right, this is just for fun.
Speaking of which, I just tested mine again on my Sinometer and it shoots up to 5.20 and then settles down somewhat at about 5.0 amps. (King Kong XSL) If I touch the end edge of the flashlight body with the side of the positive lead and press as gently as possible against the battery with the other, I can get it to read 4.80. What a monster.
Well I thought I had another on order. DD told me a week ago that it was ready to ship after I had not heard anything after ordering it. After speaking to them again tonight there is no flashlight in stock to send out. I hope to get a refund in the next couple of days. On speaking to Tmart they are also out of stock. Anyone know who has them in stock under $35.00? Thanks.
I think alot of the differances in tailcap current measurments are probably due to three things since the east driver is direct in high.The type and quality of the cells used, the brand of DVOM and quility of the leads, and how hard the +p spring is compressed. I, and others have seen a BIG change in current while compressing the driver spring. As for explaining to our wifes why we must have two of the same flaslight, I just tell her I have two hands, you(the wife) have two ……, why not two flashlights to keep my hands off your………!I don’t think she will bother me about flashlights ever again!!!-Rick
Hey Garry, you know why women close their eyes during sex?Can’t stand to see a man have a good time!I already know what I’m NOT getting tonight…might as well have the flashlights!
Just as an update: I received my TFF 26650 from Manafont last week, managed to charge it to 4.2v in my TF TR-001 using a penny trick E1320 talked about. Put it in my HD and measured a bit under 4A.
As noted above, the HD2010 will perform best at around 3.5A anyway. So, I’m quite happy, and oh yes, it is MUCH brighter than with a 18650. Still curious about the variation in max amps between us different HD owners.
Anyway, I’m happy enough to eventually buy a Kong or two and and another UF HD2010 from Tmart - a black one now that they have one, and for the same price.
Hey Sashi. So far, in the HD2010 I’ve only used my SolarForce V3s and my MF TFF 3000mAhs. These cells all charge consistently and seem to hold the charge well and deliver solid amps on my other lights. But I know I could have better cells. Suggestions?
You meant Trustfire black/flame 3000 mAh, right?
AFAIK, and just my 2 cents, those cells are best bung for the buck. For a little bit more you can buy these Sanyo, similar discharge curve, with slightly less capacity but will offer higher voltage at the same current (i.e. better for DD lights). Best 18650 is Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green). Protected and not IMR. If you want IMR, there are quite cheap and good alternatives, but they will be unprotected! Be careful to use these in DD light.
The bad part of all this is that I have my HD2010 on the way, and I have “old” (but charged not more than 5 times) TF black/flame 2400 mAh :bigsmile: And these are quite worse than new TF 3000 and SolarForce V3 And you said with 26650 your HD is much brighter. Darn, I was thinking that 18650 will be enough for me :bigsmile: Looks like I’ll need to buy one 26650
Yeah, I knew I had decent 18650s, and was expecting higher amps in my HD according to Foy’s review, but there is obviously either variation in the East drivers, or maybe my DMM leads are still sub-par. But it isn’t just me reporting less current…
As Foy stated above, 3.5A will be as much as we need through the HD2010, but, as I’ve discovered, it may take a decent 26650 cell to get yours there. I’m fine with that, because now I have around 4500mAh capacity to play with.
Not sure DD is the best answer in this case… 5A+ is impressive, but if it really doesn’t get you any practical increase in performance, what’s the point? I won’t have to swap drivers with mine, I don’t think…
Oh, much agreed. Just went outside to confirm. Yes, the 26650 is brighter, but not by as much as I thought initially. But maybe the run times are worth it… Looking forward to getting that second HD, hoping it’s a winner over this winner.
ok, ive had my hd2010 for a lil whiles now, and reading this thread is making me itch to buy a 26650. so i concluded that i want some king kongs. but i notice they make them in icr and inr’s. which one do i get? can someone recommend me a decent charger that charges two at a time also thanks!
)
And you said with 26650 your HD is much brighter. Darn, I was thinking that 18650 will be enough for me :bigsmile: Looks like I’ll need to buy one 26650 
