Review: UltraFire HD2010

You have a lot to answer for. My sanity for one. I still have it, thanks. I dont own a solarforce host yet but have more than a few dropins that have no home though. Is there still hope? We all need lots of double up on flashlights.

Edit. I have plans for the new arrival.

I accept full responsibility and offer semi-sincere apologies to flashaholics' wives everywhere. If your relationship can handle another flashlight, it can endure the worst of life's challenges.

DrFoy

Has anyone determined the cause of the lower current readings in their HD2010 yet? Seems to most likely be our cells, but I haven’t been able to break 4A with my TFF 18650s (less than 3A) or my Solarforce V3 2600 (3.7A). I am topping off one of each of these to try again - and my new DMM is pretty cheap - so I can’t say for sure that I am getting accurate measurements anyway.

Everyone seems to have the same East 092 driver in their HD2010, so I’m thinking it has to be the variance in all the cells out there…

Regardless, I’m still pleased as hell with this torch.

and it’s a big problem for high currents measurements. Anyway, 3.7A is a really nice current @HI.

True. If it’s an accurate measurement, I’ll get high performance with better run times with a 18650 at least, until I get my 26650s. :slight_smile:

BUT, the detective in me still wants someone to help solve the mystery - the inconsistent current readings from so many HD2010 owners has me a bit worried about possible variation with the East 092 drivers. Sure, our 18650s are all going to be a tad different, but while TFFs (if real) and SF V3s are proven li-ions in general, they aren’t high-end 18650s. And many out there with lower amp measurements surely have a better DMM and leads than I have. Johnny Mac got 3.5A with TFFs, and Foy got 4+ with SF cells. One of them - I can’t remember who at the moment - got their HD from TMart, as did I. From what I have read, it doesn’t matter. They all have the East 092 driver.

All in all, it really doesn’t matter that much. The HD is obviously a bad ass, regardless of top current readings at the tailcap. I’m just a curious newb trying to educate myself and having a ton of fun doing it. :slight_smile:

Thanks again to all. I love this place.

My HD is still “on the way” :bigsmile: I’ll be very happy if mine will do 3.5A with my TF black/flame :stuck_out_tongue: I get 2.5-2.7A with MF UF 3 mode drop-in.
Anyway, can be dozen of things: diff batch of cells, diff batch of drivers, bad soldering, cheap DMM, cheap leads…

Hahaha! You are totally right.

What is it about us torch freaks that makes us want to push our poor little XM-L emitters to their very limits? If we’re doing a good 3.5A with an HD2010, isn’t that like 700 lumens in an XM-L T6?

If we hit closer to 900LM at near 5A with a 26650, I would hope we’d notice a difference. But really - is it useful difference? Do I really need to prove the XM-L will do the 1100LM limit it’s been tested at? No. Haha. This HD2010 doesn’t more than it needs to, and direct drive is inefficient when it comes to 5 amps anyway. I am learning that a well managed driver is more important because it also supports better run times.

It’s hilarious, because as much as I love this torch, I can’t even imagine a practical need for it to be brighter than it already is. I mean, the WOW factor and impressing my friends can be accomplished with my SF L2T, and lately the TF Mini-01.

I know that there’s so many on BLF who actually USE their lights on a regular basis for work or whatever. But it seems the addicts end up with so much more than they’ll ever use - and I already have, just in the last couple months. The HD is the pinnacle marker of this sickness. I had a few staple torches, and I needed a dedicated thrower. Didn’t I?

:slight_smile:

Match did a graph a while back that clearly showed minimal gains above around 3.5 amps for an XM-L so, you're right, this is just for fun.

Speaking of which, I just tested mine again on my Sinometer and it shoots up to 5.20 and then settles down somewhat at about 5.0 amps. (King Kong XSL) If I touch the end edge of the flashlight body with the side of the positive lead and press as gently as possible against the battery with the other, I can get it to read 4.80. What a monster.

ampsaremeFoy

Hmmm….
Thinking of getting to 26650 train.
Seems like a good replacement for a 2 x 18650 thrower without giving up all runtime.

Well I thought I had another on order. DD told me a week ago that it was ready to ship after I had not heard anything after ordering it. After speaking to them again tonight there is no flashlight in stock to send out. I hope to get a refund in the next couple of days. On speaking to Tmart they are also out of stock. Anyone know who has them in stock under $35.00? Thanks.

I think alot of the differances in tailcap current measurments are probably due to three things since the east driver is direct in high.The type and quality of the cells used, the brand of DVOM and quility of the leads, and how hard the +p spring is compressed. I, and others have seen a BIG change in current while compressing the driver spring. As for explaining to our wifes why we must have two of the same flaslight, I just tell her I have two hands, you(the wife) have two ……, why not two flashlights to keep my hands off your………!I don’t think she will bother me about flashlights ever again!!!-Rick

There are 2 different drivers. EAST092 and EAST092B. Thers is a discussion on this thread about it.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/10712

Good luck with your two hands Rick. I dont know if your bragging or not but I only need one hand.

Bragging…no.Just that last I checked…she had two.I will further investigate tonight…for the sake of BLF, of course!

ROTFLMAO! Guess I could try your same argument in support of my flashlight addiction!

-Garry

Hey Garry, you know why women close their eyes during sex?Can’t stand to see a man have a good time!I already know what I’m NOT getting tonight…might as well have the flashlights!

investigatesoftenFoy

Just as an update: I received my TFF 26650 from Manafont last week, managed to charge it to 4.2v in my TF TR-001 using a penny trick E1320 talked about. Put it in my HD and measured a bit under 4A.

As noted above, the HD2010 will perform best at around 3.5A anyway. So, I’m quite happy, and oh yes, it is MUCH brighter than with a 18650. Still curious about the variation in max amps between us different HD owners.

Anyway, I’m happy enough to eventually buy a Kong or two and and another UF HD2010 from Tmart - a black one now that they have one, and for the same price. :slight_smile:

What 18650s do you have, Jaffo?

Hey Sashi. So far, in the HD2010 I’ve only used my SolarForce V3s and my MF TFF 3000mAhs. These cells all charge consistently and seem to hold the charge well and deliver solid amps on my other lights. But I know I could have better cells. Suggestions?

(sorry, had to edit to add a zero. :wink: )