Looking good!
Any pics from the modding process itself?
No I'm afraid not.
I used a 14mm base emitter and trimmed out the edges.
It was very hard to solder it back because of the short wires plus it didn't seem to be possible to pull out the driver.
But it worked out in the end.
I might pull it apart again to ad some thermal glue so maybe I can take some pictures then.
This is the emitter that I used http://www.dealextreme.com/p/cree-xp-g-r51b-7000k-350lm-emitter-with-14mm-base-44305
I like it.
Excellent flashlight (as long as I remember to forget about what it looks like inside :p). Not very bright but doesn't have to be. The only issue I have is that the holder part of the headband doesn't exactly fit. Doesn't really matter that much but it still bothers me a little
My question is how the thermal pathway works for this light (and mod). Is it just that aluminium block behind the emitter? and does it have a good thermal pathway to the body of the torch?
Ive just opened mine up for a peek, but it was all filled with thermal paste(glue?) and I couldn't really work out how well the butt joints met. I wasn't in a mood to get modding at the time and have no parts to replace it with as of yet anyway.
The small aluminium block is pressed in between the back of the emitter and the flashlight body.
If you remove the thermal glue around it you should be able to wiggle the block out.
I think it does a pretty good job at spreading out the heat from the emitter because the body gets really hot after a while.
Seems to work, but doesn't look too great lol. Im sure its not ideal, but beats having nothing!! like many LED devices I've received from budget sellers.
*OFF-TOPIC ALERT* - Like my 3 LED underwater light unit.. the emitter board wasn't even screwed down, they had tapped M3 holes, but then used like 2mm diameter self tapping screws, so they probably went to the effort of 'screwing' it in, only to have the board flapping inside, and these tiny screws floating around scratching the TIR optics.
Sorry... I had to say that somewhere about a recent arrival... Anyways yeah Ill try taking it apart when I get more emitters, but first, how to fix the PWM?!? are the drivers re-programmable [cue the driver reprogramming experts]
I'm planning to buy one of these and mod it with an XML neutral (14mm) or XPG Hi cri (10mm) LED. Is it worth it and how high is the probability of failure?
Would anybody tell me how to attach this to the supplied head band? The only I can see fitting it inside the two rubber rings if the clip is removed. Looking at some of the pictures on the web, some headband used a velcro strap instead of the two rubber rings that is found in my strap.
I fit mine into the loops on the headband with the narrow part of the clip in one loop.......it's usually fitted so that the beam angles downward (~30-45deg), and the clip doesn't have to be against the backing part of the mount.
Do you pull out the clip to slide over the loop?
I Received my UF H2 today and it only lasted a few minutes on stock form, Modded it with a Hi CRI xpg. satisfied with the result and will be using it on my next Mt climb.
Yes, Fran is right, it must be a lithium only circuit.
Anyone tried to add some sort of relfector to this to enhance throw?
Also, where to look for high CRI emitters with worldwide shipping?
Ive ordered H2 myself and been thinking about reflector+high CRI emitter swap, although I dont know if I will be doing it, since I dont have it yet and dont know what the beam pattern and usable light distance will be like.
@veer: https://illuminationsupply.com/nichia-leds-c-39.html
Pretty new, very high cri. I dont know if there is enough room for a reflector. Maybe some sort of lens..
@iseethelight:
https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-xml-14mm-round-mcpcb-t3-3000k-tint-p-148.html
Warm is about 3000k and looks very orange.. are you sure you want that?
Btw., T3 is binning, not tint.
Neutral would be about 5000k I think. Those are widely available.
Depends on your battery. :P
Regular LiIon cells, usually yes, with good heatsinking (might pull about 4 amps in the beginning).
For DD 4.2V is pretty hard and they light up a little at about 2.5V. So 1 LiIon cell is perfect, tho they get REALLY hot.
I unscrewed the reflector of one of my P60 dropins, placed it on a piece of wood and fired it up with 1A from 1 18650 cell. Dropin reached 80°C after a few minutes, emitter 110°C. Thats when I stopped.
To run it directly from 1.5V alkalines, 2-3 are fine. Or 3 NiMH rechargeables. Otherwise you need a driver.
Thanks!
I think I have H2 waiting for me in the post office, will check it out coming week and see if I need to take it apart or not.
I will probably either ask for direction in this thread or most likely start a new one IF I decide to mod mine with different LED and add reflector :)!
Thanks again!
From what I've read, the main problem people have with the H2 are tint and PWM. Tint can easy be changed by swapping the emitter (tho I think thats pretty hard with such a small light, just look at the pics posted by pipopopo in #57), PWM would require a different driver or reprogramming the current one..