I just got two Solarforce UV P60s — one works fine; the other one, shortly after I put it in the Solarforce host, I dropped it (about 2 feet) and the LED came unstuck from the pill. So I’ve got to figure that out.
But — one works fine.
I went looking for a way to filter out the visible and not interfere too much with the UV output. Rosco makes theatrical filter gels that might do, but the UV would eat them up pretty fast and they lose a lot of transmission even in the UV range. But.
“… Rosco’s new Permacolor #3660 UV Pass Filter in front of a UV-rich source will do the trick perfectly.”
Those cost around $8 from photo suppliers for a 2” circular filter.
Anyone know a flashlight that takes a P60 dropin and will hold a 2” filter?
Or a flashlight that will take camera step-up lensholders from its standard head to mount a 2” filter?
I got the drop-in the other day and put it in an L2P with 2 extension tubes, running 4 18500 lap pulls in it. Very low visible light, but very strong UV. Can’t see it in a beam profile more than a few feet away, but in a dark room it will flouresce virtually anything in the room. Haven’t tried currency yet, but diamonds really show their stuff! And the emitters, yeah the MT-G2 is awesome looking at a bright reddish orange! Gotta be careful not to flash the UV back at yourself though.
How important is it to run that high a voltage? Would be much more convenient to have a smaller light, but if it needs that kind of power to really work then I’ll leave it set up as it is.
forget Newport, different technology, no doubt $uperior (sigh) but not for $400
The Rosco UV-pass filter costs $8 to $16 from a lot of photography stores.
So — does anyone make a flashlight that takes a P60 dropin, and has a 2” (50.8mm) lens/reflector diameter??
Or know of step-up rings that would put a 2” photography filter on a flashlight?
Threads. Drive. Me. Crazy.
Seems like machinists have more different kinds of threads than quiltmakers!
Just curious. I doubt it would compare to a multi-hundred-dollar dedicated UV light, but it’s nice that it’s useful for general-purpose lighting instead of just UV. Low-power red/green/blue emitters, a “3 watt” UV emitter, and the XP-G2 we’re all familiar with, in one package. I’m hoping someone will review it soon.
“… remote control monitoring stations up/downwind or stream from suspected polluters and collecting evidence over many months to find patterns of releases to the environment that a single inspection would probably miss (Already missed typically…).”
I don’t think either are Nichia UV’s. The 365 is better but it depends what you want to use it for. The 3W has two emitters I think. There was an image of the emitters but need to go look for it.
Hmm… I’m planning to buy it for the same purpose of checking currency and random stuff like lighting up glow in the dark stuff.
Is this a good place to buy it?
I got the KD P60 and set up my light with extension tubes running 4 18500 cells. Then I got to studying and started taking some measurements. One 18650 gave .31A, where 4 18500’s gave .07A. So the single cell was actually running more power. I don’t need it to run 6 weeks on one charge, so single cell it is! (yes, I know, 6 weeks was an exaggeration to prove a point) Very neat light, like it a lot. Thanks for the recommendation.
It’s brighter on one cell than 4, or 3 or 2. Deceptive, as there’s not much visible light but it causes reactions in materials from further away. Materials like white objects, like urine, like diamonds…
On 4 brand new Kinoko 18500 high discharge cells it pulls .07A at the tail, just now. On one well rested and partially used Sanyo UR18650FJ lap pull it does .31A at the tail. In my lightbox, the 4 cells show up as .01 with no multiplier used. The single Sanyo shows .02. Much easier to see a stain in carpet for instance, with one cell from waist high, versus the 4 cells, where handholding at the waist barely shows the floor.
ri chevy, it was pointed out in this thread that the UV light causes the phosphor to fluoresce different colors dependant on their tint bins. So you get a different result if the tint is cool white vs warm white. Cool whites like 1A tint bins don’t actually do much and still have that yellow/green look but duller, warm tint’s like the one above go orange! The warmer the more orange, so it actually does help to identify which tint bins you have with the UV light.
Just this morning I was looking to put an XM-L2 U2 1A in gas for de-doming. I had an unmarked emitter on a Noctigon, and a marked 1A bare in a bag. What tint is the mounted one? Side by side they look identical. But I didn’t want a greenish cast to my light with the de-domed emitter, so I got the UV light out. The bare emitter glowed brighter, highlighter yellow, so I knew it was the one to go with! The other is probably a 3C, had that dullish yellow/green look to it.
The light above is, I think, an XP-G2 R5 2B. My big MT-G2 lights also glow orange, and are supposed to be 5000K in temperature.
I had thought that the number of cells only increased the run time and that on one cell it needed to boost the voltage slightly and more two or more cells would buck, but then
I wonder if there has been a change in the driver?