This should help to repair.
I will do that after I am finished with the stock test. Meanwhile, you may read up Tom E’s thread regrading his findings.
Thanks Tom. This is my first “formal” review in BLF. Hope they are useful for people who is interested with this model. If you noticed, I have been following your X60 thread since.
Unfortunately, my copy is not functioning well out from the box. Power delivery is below them what I expected. Therefore, I am unable to provide measurements at the moment, as they may not be representative for this model.
What are you going to do with 14mm milled off area? How about thin metal sheet?
I agreed that the o-rings a slightly oversize, minus 0.2mm will be perfect. Mine got chewed up by the threads at certain point, if you did not line up the thread properly. I will lube them once more later.
I’m guessing the bezel isn’t stainless and there is noticeable pwm in med and low?
Bezel: anodized aluminum.
PWM: yes, it appears on my DSLR live view even at 1/30s. But I have to say that my eyes are not sensitive to PWM. I can only see it when I deliberately shake from one direction to another at fast speed.
Thanks! Weird - actually I bought this a while back: ebay-45pcs-Laptop-GPU-CPU-Heatsink-Copper-Shim-20mmx20mm and it does include 0.5 mm shims -- Ooops. Hhmm, thinking I looked at these in the past for the A10 and thought they were too thick... I gotta re-check, because if my measurements are good, this should work, just cut to size.
I do really like these Warsun's - nice design and quality, but it's so frustrating when they make a pretty good light, and mess up on some basic things done better in cheaper lights... 
Would these work better?
Or these, a little thinner (22ga = .644mm) [actually 24ga at .511mm would be perfect]
And yes for a $25~ light, it looks quite a decent light…sux that thermal management would be crap due to that milled portion
Instead of adding another layer: how about milling down the complete pill section, at least to the level of the bare aluminum?
Question is whether the reflector will still sit tightly on the star then. Perhaps if a Noctigon is thicker than the stock MCPCB, it can compensate for the loss in height.
I’m awaiting a Warsun MX900. I fell for the design and the 2-switch-concept to start playing with the Star momentary firmware. It seems these Warsun lights need some heavy preparation first…
Yes - would love to mill it down, but need a mill and knowledge how to use it 
. We do actually have one at work here but it's an old one, and I'd have to recruit help. What I really want is a nice setup comfy has with a drill press, jigs, some mill bits, etc... But again, he sure has the knowledge and experience...
Once it's milled down though, then it would be easy for me to build up the MCPCB level from there using copper discs or shims I got.
Milling seem to be a good method as it will remove the anodizing surfaces. However, since the led is sitting further back, there will be bigger gap between LED and reflector.
Yes, that’s what I meant. Might produce a ringy beam. Perhaps a Noctigon, that is 1.55mm in height, can compensate that. Or at least it will be easier to fill the gap with copper, when the MCPCB is copper and the base in the light is flat. Even better might be if reflector or head can be screwed in deeper. But I stop speculating until my light arrives.
It’s quite strange, they seem to have made a lot of things right with their lights, but this design flaw is a hoot.
Did you see RaceR86's experience with a Warsun (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27904)? Yikes!
Actually I just saw last night a milled out pill top very similar to how this one looks. It's on a SupFire F3 zoomie, but it's milled to 16 mm in width, so the 16 mm MCPCB fits in there perfectly. This makes some sense - it keeps the MCPCB in the perfect center position, can't move around. The 14 mm milled out cut on this one looks so intentional, like they meant to do the same thing to fit a 14 mm MCPCB, maybe, or just made the cut the wrong size.
It is IPX-7, according to BG and WB.
I think filling up the void area with copper or alu shim is the simplest and cheapest method to rectify the design for all.
I doubt… It might be a process or equipment limitation for machining. Only CNC experts will have the real answer.
The inset shelf was cut out after the anodizing process, so seems like it was intentionally done at a later stage.
Included a few more pics.
I missed this review somehow. Thanks freeme. I cant quite believe what I've read or seen about the hole under the led. Its a real shame as the rest of the light looks very nice.
Thanks for the review freeme, i got one based on your review.
Good throw and great run times. I wish there is a zoomy model of this light.
Really? 
I like the look and feel very much too. It has good throw distance by default, even with reduce brightness. Hope WARSUN will come out will a updated version soon.
I just received an X60 and MX900 today, ordered these way back in June, went missing in the Phillipines and had to be resent. By the time they got here I have moved on to higher quality lights. The machining, styling and finish is great, the output is disappointing.
I do share the same sentiment when I first power up my X60 :S Especially, mine was really under-powered for some reason. That was the reason why my review process got hold back.
Yezl Y3 is of similar 26650 class and perhaps a much better choice than WARSUN X60. What other higher quality lights are you comparing with by the way?
What I mean by that is that back when I ordered these all my lights were budget brands. In the time it took for these to get here (nearly 3 months!) I have started buying higher quality lights that actually perform as described and don’t have faults that need modding. My recent purchase have been the Nitecore ec25 cobra, 4sevens MMU-X3, Sunwayman F40A, Supbeam K50 & X40, Acebeam K40M, Olight SR51 etc. I am not comparing these as direct competiors, just saying that I am much happier spending more per light to get lights that perform as specified.