40% from initial output, 60% is lost, for 3000 hrs.
Normal for one-dollar lamps, but A19’s cost much more.
I suspect this lamp won’t even make it to 10,000 hours, and I used it in an open fixture where heat shouldn’t have been a problem. I wanted to mention, even an L70 is a somewhat poor rating. An L70 means you loose nearly 1/3 the light’s output before it gets replaced. Metal halide had comparably poor lumen maintenance, but it didn’t last as long as LED before it had to be re-lamped. T8 fluorescent was actually a lot better then LED in this regards. It has a 90–95 lumen maintenance over its long lifespan. It’s possible to intelligently design LED fixtures that compensate for lumen depreciation by having the driver gradually push more power to the chips as they age and degrade, but most consumer lights don’t do this.
2000h and will go to trash? 
for 18$ ?
RIRERA9 will humiliate it
Waveform Lighting got back to me fairly promptly. I wanted to mention this earlier. They sent me a replacement lamp at no cost to me. They also had me send back the defective lamp at no cost to me. The warranty and manufacturer saved me on this one.
Hi!
I wanted to buy the waveform Lightning light bulbs because I am very sensitive to flickering and light quality, and any artificial light really generate me dizziness! So i tried to buy from them, but shipping and taxes costs are tooo high.
Since I am in europe, is there any other company that produce the same type of product as waveform lightning?
You’ll have to buy the LED-Lamps from Philips and try them.
Buying 5-10 different LED-Lamps and finding out about their flickering can cost more than just spend $64.41 on shipping from waveform.
Thanks you so much for that website is so useful!
I wanted something with thoose requisite:
- E27/E14
- CRI 95+
- Flicker (No flicker or up 50khz DC Inverter)
- 2700k - 4000k light bulbs
I saw there are the GU10 Philips Master Color LED, which have a very high CRI and right color temperature. Do you know the frequency of flicker, and If it would be better to swap the E27 adapter to a GU10?
I don’t know the frequenzy of flickr of the Philips MasterLED. But since the Master Series targets the professional market, chances for reduced flicker are good.
The austrian company of Ledon did produce some flickr-free lamps in the past.
So i suggest you’ll have to try the Philips or Osram lamps.
Hello,
I am a new user and it seems your forums are very helpful for people to select a good light (s).
Would you please suggest if there were any updates? I am looking for the light that closely approximates the sun colors during the day because I live in a relatively dark area of the Country, Pacific NW, it is rainier and cloudier.
Thank you.
Not everyone will agree, but IMO if you’re using this for day time lighting, you should get something at least 5000K and probably just go 6500K especially if you have a good amount of lighting/brightness/lux. I haven’t looked into this area in a few years, but Waveform Lighting seems to be one of the only manufacturers who do 6500K with a high CRI. This wasn’t reviewed here, but their other lights seem decent so I suspect their 6500K is too. If you don’t want to go so high, Yuji also does 5000K although my understanding is the Waveform 5000K is better anyway. Don’t know about their past warranty issues, no recent reports makes me thing maybe it’s not such a problem any more and to be fair only 2 users reported it.
I know this is many years later, but thank you for your review. I have been looking into Waveform lights because I had a traumatic brain injury and now can see the flicker from all sorts of lights. Some lights look like I’m sitting in a room with a strobe light going off.