The Lion cell needs to be stepped down to 1.5v. Then you ask that it be stepped up to 9v. I think you are incurring double conversion losses there. Not sure what the amp draw is but due to the step conversion they do heat up and that limits their current output.
They are best if your device has HIGH voltage requirement but only low>med amp needs.
In general they will not compare well at current output to a good NiMh or go the same ‘distance’.
Nor will they do as well for very low output like a clock, assuming you are willing to risk the problems with alkaleaks.
They are useful, but really have a pretty narrow real world niche.
The expense to use ratio is not very good.
I have ~20 of them (AA and AAA), and they really haven’t functionally replaced any NiMh. Trimmers run better/faster, and lights that would otherwise go dimmer stay bright, until > suddenly dead.
I have read reports of satisfied users with the battery powered locks.
No, they use proprietary chargers or USB direct plug in.
I’ve seen some people claim you can use a regular charger. I tried. Some……appear……to work, but don’t work properly. Charging fails. The electronics interfere with the proper function of the charger.
Note - I’m referring to an ‘apparently’ dead battery when the overdischarge limit engages and the cell appears to go ‘dead’/0 volts. The stock charging will bring it back. Normal behavior.
If the electronics FAIL, then it’s shot.
I’ve had ONE protected cell fail. Removed the protection and the cell was fine.
I’ve seen a number of BMS on multi-cell packs fail, when the batteries were just fine.
If the 1.5v over discharges, the circuit has failed. It’s broken. No repair possible.
If the Vapecell has ‘repair’ capability, all it’s doing is accepting an over discharge voltage status and charging it, or at least trying to. Many ‘smart’ chargers simply reject them if the voltage gets below a programmed threshold.
They are not ‘repairing’ anything. They are ignoring possible damage and charging anyway. They can’t ‘fix’ it.
Whether you are willing to accept that the cell has been damaged, and therefore has a higher possibility of failure is up to you. That’s a WHOLE different discussion, that goes on here all the time.
Note- you can ‘jump/bump’ an over discharged lion with another cell until the voltage comes up to an acceptable level, THEN put it on a smart charger and go. It’s essentially the same thing. No fix, just a ‘trick’. Risks are the same.
*[Repair LiIon & NiMH:
Repair runs 3 charges and 3 discharges, this means batteries ends up discharged. This mode do not allow selection of current.]*
So, it just cycles the batteries. IMO, +this function is worthless on Lion+, and may have some utility on neglected, abused, or stored NiMh.
I'm in the process of doing that with some stored NiMh right now. Run 'em down, charge, repeat, until the capacity stabilizes. May take 3-5 rounds to get to that point. Time consuming.
On older batteries that do not terminate well the automatic cycle/repair may not work very well. I think a more accurate word would be 'exercise' the battery, as it really does not 'repair' anything.
[high resistance] - there’s a significant part of your answer. It’s kind of the battery equivalent of doddering old age. Used to be good once, but not anymore. Can ‘doddering old age’ be fixed? Nope. Can it be ‘buffed up’? Maybe. But its’ not going to fix old age.
High capacity NiMh cells of ANY SORT including Eneloops, don’t do as well as their more moderate varieties. There is always a price to pay. The 2700-2900mAh NiMh go to hell pretty rapidly, even with little use.
What have you got to lose, a few cheap batteries?
Try. Experiment. See what you get. Wonderful opportunity to learn. Go for it.
The Duracell AA 2500 mAh was charged once then stored for years. When I bought the Vapcell charger I gave the Duracell a charge. Only one had high resistance. I never owned a analyzer charger before. U could check when the Duracell was new.
Is it possible for the Duracell NiMH have issues with only one top off charge, years ago? I have to look for the date on the battery.
Batteries age, even if not used. FWIW, NiMh seem to fare better when used. A half dozen full cycles (0.9-1.0v > full) will likely help, but won’t make them young again. Like I said, try it.
Resistance readings on chargers like that are “approximate”. Due to the slider mechanism they are not highly accurate, or repeatable. They are better than nothing, for sure.
HKJ test found that unit to be decent:
[The internal resistance values are only about half of actual resistance, but they are fairly consistent.]
I had some Ansmann 2850mAh quite a few years ago. Back then I thought…cool, brand name, lots of capacity. They were garbage in 2 years of occasional use, not abuse. Learning experience.
ANY AA NiMh much over 2000mAh will deteriorate faster than the same brand in 1900-2000.
OTOH, I have some old, quite old, Energizer NiMh I use kind of ruthlessly and they are still going, not great, but still usable.
You have something else the charger needs to be doing?
A “large” battery on repair cycle can take a very long time. Depends on; how big the cell, what the charge/discharge settings are, how many cycles.
Remember about that charger: [Repair runs 3 charges and 3 discharges, this means batteries ends up discharged. This mode do not allow selection of current.]
Depending on what current it ends up using it may have trouble terminating properly, especially if the current is low, and the internal resistance is high. So….that will mess up the [Repair Cycle].
I have some old cells that simply will not go through one of those cycles properly. Those are probably soon to be recycled.