Ripped pad on bistro driver

Soo…
In the process of removing the positive wire from the driver, i managed to pull bit sooner than needed while the solder wasnt fully melted and i pulled 1 resistor(is it a resistor?, idk, its all resistors to me :slight_smile: ) together with the wire. At later inspection i noticed that the pad was also ripped in the process.
Can anyone advise what is the purpose of the said ripped component on the board, and should/could i use the driver without it? Or if that is not an option, possibly suggest a way i can remedy my mistake.

The component is a capacitor and it is needed for the driver to work. To replace it search for a 4.7 to 10 microFarad cap.

I still have it, but the pad where it should be soldered got ripped, im not sure if it will make proper contact if i try to resolder.
Any danger if i say try resoldering it but it doesnt make proper contact? Or the light will just not turn on and thats it, without doing any damage to leds etc?

You can solder it back on top op that resistor that is going from the led+ pad to the side of the board, it goes the same route.

Kind of new to this so hopefully i dont sound too silly :)… But does polarity matter or any orientation will do?

Still until quite recently I had this very same question because some types of capacitor (the electrolytic ones) do have a polarity. But no, these small ceramic caps have no polarity.

Yeah i know electrolitic caps have markings on them to identify polarity, but i couldnt see any on this one so it made me wonder.
Ok, going at it, wish me luck

:+1:

That’s actually the 1 ohm Off Time Cap, necessary for the proper function of mode changes. You could simply scrape some of the masking off below that pad and simply move it over a bit. Or just bridge solder to that pad from the ground ring. As long as one end of that cap is at ground and the other end at the incoming power supply pad then it should be fine.

FWIW, while those 2 caps look to be the same the C1 is 10 ohm and the C2 (OTC) is 1 ohm. :wink:

Are you sure?, as far as I know the ripped off capacitor is C1, not the off-time cap. (the off-time cap is circled in red in the picture, but as an example of how the missing component looked like).

I can report partial success i guess.
The driver works , it cycles through all modes ok but on switching to full fet it stays for split second and reverts back to lowest mode.
Bad solder job on my part, or something else? Using it on tripple xp-g3’s if that makes any difference

Ok, well done! No it is not a bad solder job, but it is a known flaw of this driver when used with high current low voltage triples. To fix this I guess you will get some extra soldering practice :innocent: Let me find a link to how to fix your problem….

found the links:

Yep, i can confirm that the 10ohm resistor fixes the issue too

Damnit , no easy way out once you get into modding is there? :slight_smile:
While im at it i might even further improve it. This one is one of those bg bistro drivers with medium tap(to go back) varying depending on planet positioning, usually 3 seconds, sometimes up to 8, and when it gets warm then it works as it should 0.5-1.5 sec.
I think i read somewhere that the problem is some resistor, but cant seem to find that thread. Do you by any chance remember what was the culprit of that ?

I might opt swapping this one to a triple xp-g2. It shouldnt have problems with that, or all the same and the moding described in the links is a must?

Edit:
Does A6 driver from bg have the same issue? as im thinking running the tripple xp-g3 on that one as a quck fix for the time being

Edit2:
And aside the med press timing issue, this bg bistro driver i have also detects voltage as 0.3V lower than actual battery voltage

The A6 driver is stable, but only has 4 or 7 levels and the strobe isn’t the tactical one. I use the A6 a LOT!

Yeah great driver imo, pretty simple with enough options and relatively cheap.
Will the Bistro work ok with xp-g2 triple if i do a swap, or similar problems are to be expected as with the G3’s?
The tripple xp-g2 i have with the A6 and 20ga wire with no driver spring bypass, draws 8A at full battery in full fet.