Yes I think this did the trick. There has to be something that I changed for this to happen. Idk what though.
I was lucky. Normally I use a half drained Xtar protected battery for testing. This time however, I used a Sanyo 18650b unprotected because I gave my last protected cell away. After the event when the battery cooled down I checked the voltage. 255mv left in the cell. I completely drained the cell from a short circuit in less than 30sec. I’m thankful that nothing serious happens and I will be ordering some more protected cells.
…do you think I can revive this cell or did I ruin it for good?
It takes about 20 seconds to grab your meter and check between B+ and GND before you apply power the first time. You’d be amazed how many times a problem is discovered even when you ‘know’ everything is perfect.
Strange, my F6s never had an issue with that, even though I used cells with a quite large (in diameter) button top, unprotected. The white plastic insulator can be pushed in. Maybe you cell was longer and pushed up with more force?
Yes. The cells are not longer, but I changed the spring in the tail and it is a much tighter fit. Maybe there is more room in stock form and the stock spring in the tail was much more loose than the driver spring. This would keep the cell from compressing the driver spring to the point of shorting out. I might have to take the tail apart again and adjust the spring. That’s not a fun task on this light, but doable. Either way, I’m now going to keep an insulator on the retaining ring. No more accidents. :-/
Well. I’m terribly disappointed right now I’m afraid that the battery short may have damaged the driver. I have it assembled now with no response to the button. I also tested with removing the battery tube. I connected it straight from the driver to a power source.
Now I need to disassemble the head. Getting all the wires through the holes was difficult so I was planning on not having to do that again. Im also afraid that I damaged the driver when adding Amc chips. Adding the chips went well so I’m not sure. This is the point in a build where you just need to put it down for a couple days. But dr jones is playing fun games related to this driver so he is making that difficult also I’ll do some thinking, then take it apart.
Hi folks, does anyone know where I might be able to buy a new switch for the F6 driver? I have looked at RS, but can’t find a similar switch. Any help with this is much appreciated.
The Helios driver has it’s own switch. comfy published the complete parts list, think it was a DigiKey cart list wayyy back. Did you look at posts #20 and #21? Not sure if it helps. Dunno what RS is… If you can’t order from DigiKey in the UK, maybe you can at least use them as a resource to search for one?
Need to know which version driver first. The early stock driver and the Helios driver use one type (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MJTP1117/679-2400-ND/1795496), the cheaped-out 7136 driver uses a smaller one.
I’m afraid that the battery short may have damaged the driver. I have it assembled now with no response to the button. I also tested with removing the battery tube. I connected it straight from the driver to a power source.
I’ll do some thinking, then take it apart.