So I have a nib convoy c8+ just sitting around collecting dust and I’m thinking about trying it as a rifle light for a while. After all, it’s certainly a nice thrower and the asthetics are pretty slick.
Anyways, my main concern is the exposed driver on the b+ side. I was thinking about putting a coat of potting compound over it but honestly has no idea what to use. Obviously I don’t want to go spend $60 on a bunch of special purpose epoxy for this little job but I also don’t want to waste my time or ruin the light. The way I figure is it needs to be thin enough liquid to flow into the various crevices on the driver and chips to secure them in place without seeping all over or in between electrical contacts. It should also cure fairly hard but not brittle.
If it is for hunting light, expect no problems without any modification. If you are going to shoot several hundreds/thousands rounds, outcome will be very interesting. I would try first without modification, the new driver is several bucks, but you can estimate how many rounds the standard driver will survive and take informed decision to pot or not BTW, if you do it, I will be interested in the results.
Well, stocking an extra driver or two would make sense but I’d prefer not to have a failure if possible. Just kind of playing with options- given the current ammo scene I’m not at the range much lately.
I’d buy the ramping driver for gun use. And if you want to use a remote (pressure) switch, Lexel’s FET can be added to that switch with a little work on the tail-cap. You’ll have ZERO current losses doing it that way.
Funtastic is selling the C8+ on his site in NZ (he doesn’t sell out of his country BTW) and AFAIK he’s not “ruggedizing” his C8+ lights. He is though suggesting a button top 18650 for a tighter fit AND to keep recoil from “denting” in unprotected cells. He also is suggesting a 30Q battery- MAX for the new Osram CULPM1.TG version he is selling.
I ALSO own the same light Funtansic is selling and it’s a thrower for sure. I built the FET remote tail switch and so I get the full output the light has to offer- it rocks! You may do better just ordering it from Convoy already put together. You can contact them asking for that particular config if you have time for it to come from China.
But even using the C8+ you have, if your caliber isn’t too large- I don’t think the stock light will have any problems say on a 22-250, 6.8 SPC, 243 sized gun- which would be the typical varmint (coyote) calibers anyway. Put it on a 300 winmag… uh ya, might want to pot the driver and put larger springs in.
I need to go run (test) my C8+ on my 6.8 SPC (ar15) where the light fits PERFECTLY into standard 1” scope rings. So it’s easy (on MOST ar15 rails) to mount the light without a specialty mount. Not so easy on traditional rifles though. You can also use your thumb to activate the light (by it’s clicky switch) on the ar15 rail if you put it right out front of your preferred forearm (grip) area.
Has anybody used MG Chemicals 832HD? Just picked up a dual syringe for $9 (only 25ml) so I’ll have to mess with it a little bit. Reviews look interesting but sounds like the right stuff.
Well, the 832HD seems to work pretty good. Its not fully cured yet and it took two coats. Because it is so thin the first coat seeped through the crevices and into the other side of the driver. After that set up a little bit I was able to apply a second “filler” coat which seems to be going well. I did function test and it still works so it didn’t get in between any electrical contacts. Datasheet says 24hr cure time but I will probably give it a few days before I inject through the LED lead holes on the other side to fill the driver cavity. If this the finish product turns out as well as I’m expecting I’ll probably do the same to a few other lights I have! The low viscosity makes it a little tricky to keep in one area but also makes air bubbles a non-issue and self levels nicely.
Also, the 25ml syringe comes with a very nice mixing tip. Takes a little effort to clean out after each use but it is doable. I blow it out with my air compressor and then rinse with carb cleaner. So far that has worked excellent twice.
Well for anybody who is interested I finished up. After reviewing the datasheet the 832HD is rated for full cure in 60min at 176F and 2 hours at 149F so I used my infrared thermometer and our toaster over to shorten the cure time! Below is the LED side and driver side pics of the final, potted results. Can’t see much on the LED side but if you look closely there is a tiny bit of overfill visible. I used an 18 gauge blunt needle on a 3ml syringe to inject the 832HD into the void space through the LED wire hole. Seems like everything worked perfectly. Never mind the rough finish to the driver side potting, I wiped up a little overflow with a Q-tip and it roughed up a mostly cured finish Oh well, at least its not visible in use.
Also, does anybody know of a hard coat acrylic lens that is thicker than the one from flashlightlens.com? I need 41.8mm OD by at least 2mm thick. I could use their UCLp, but would really prefer SOME level of scratch resistance.
BTW, if you do it, I will be interested in the results.
Oh well, at least its not visible in use.
