Really?
I have one running around that power. Did they change the firmware?
I want to know the result later, since maybe I would do the same thing.
Are you sure it’s the Banggood Blf X6 and not the A6? Apart from the MCU (Attiny25 vs. Attiny13A) they are identical but the Attiny25 is more sensitive. Are you using Bistro? Bistro does ramping to achieve a smooth transition between the modes, if you disable ramping you might get a better reliability of the driver.
I have used the old hardware with the tiny25 on an XP-G3 @ ~8A and it work fine but I tried the same driver with a triple setup and it freaks out and resets when you try to go into turbo. I am guessing the limit is closer to 10A or so, at least in my case it is.
The inductance of the wiring/conductors to the LEDs also makes a difference. Higher amps and higher inductance both makes the FET switching ‘spikes’ worse. Probably why it is more obvious on a triple where we have both high amps and more convoluted emitter conductors.
Even in an ‘average’ setup the MCU is getting some ugly stuff on its supply pins with these drivers. I am surprised it works as well as it do (or even at all!) and that there are not more damaged MCUs.
I had problems with the BLF-X6 driver in triples, but all BLF-A6 drivers thusfar worked fine.
Is there a way to ‘fix’ existing BLF-X6 drivers from Banggood by adding or swapping components? (I can not flash software). Because I do like the UI very much.
Easiest way is to stack another 10 uF capacitor on top of the existing one (at the red wire, next to the diode). This helped in all cases where I had this problem (currents up to 16 Amperes), and there have been quite a few, since I am using this driver (with various modifications) for most of my builds.
For my SRK 7x which draws up to 28 Amperes I additionally installed a 4.7 Ohm resistor in series to the schottky diode (proposal of DEL). I am sure it helps but I don’t know if it’s really required in this light, since I didn’t test it without this resistor.
Thanks FM for the tips, I will do that. I bought some 10uF ‘tantalum’ capacitors at Fasttech a while ago, would they do the job?
Don’t know if they suitable, I’m no hardware professional, sorry. I’m using ceramic capacitors though.
djozz,
Inserting a 2.2 ohm - 10 ohm resistor in between cell+ and the C1/D1 junction will fix the problem. (Stacking C1 is a brute-force method that fixes the symptom, rather than the problem. Tantalum is not great for this, too high ESR.)
You still want to feed the emitter directly from the cell+. IIRC the layout of the X6 driver makes this tricky, but I am sure you will find a way 
.
(On some drivers TomE’s ‘tombstone’ technique works well. Basically you build a little pyramid with Rnew+D1+C1 placed vertically, their junction up in the air.)
Thanks for all your replies guys.
I already have driver and leds/optic so last things are host and spacer. Spacer is no big deal to make here
Mike
Thanks DEL, I will do the trick in a problem triple and make a nice picture of the result
And report if it works: currently the light works fine on a high drain Efest IMR 18500, but not on a Sanyo or NCR18500A.
S2 + with 3xLED are beautiful.
Where can I buy 3x Nichia 219C or XP-G3 with high CRI and color 4500-5000K?
16mm with optics of course.
The OP has a link to 219C 92cri LED’s on a triple PCB with optic that is a great deal or if you want a tighter binned version Clemence is running a GB for some 3 step binned 219c’s as well.
Can someone tell me exact dimensions for s2+ spacer? Thanks, Mike
Guys, in that build you leave glass or just plastic optics?
Mike
I can’t tell the exact ones because it’ll fit no matter what.
I just used one 16mm copper star and 2 20mm copper star soldered direct to the board.
And the last sandwich triples was soldered on as well
I left the glass on just for durability. It works without the glass
I will definitely miss my triple. It got lost/stolen when I was working
I’m builing a KD triple 219C too.
Matte black S2+ host.
I widened the lens opening to approximately 19.5mm, but this means waiting another month for 21mm glass lens… :weary:
…because it came with a 20mm glass lens…
But the bezel does not shroud the optics anymore. :+1:
Will use 0.7mm solder as O-ring.
Maybe later look for 0.5mm rubber O-ring.
I stacked 8 more 7135s on a 105c driver (a ghastly job…), so it’s around 5.3 Watts regulated per LED.
Big square switch from Convoy store, double springs, not sure about the driver spring(s) yet.
I also made a topic of my KD 219C triple S2+.
I have some question marks about the performance though…