This looks like a better approach as it is not dependent on a magnet in the holster or the like. I flirted with this idea several years ago, adding a light sensor to monitor received (or bounced) light. I figured it could adjust the intensity automatically when moving the light between scanning the woods and reading a map. Never went anywhere with it though. 
I have seen a number of small switches that have discrete little covers on them, but never looked for them so I can’t remember where I saw them or who made them. I was thinking of something simple like this.
Something that can easily be moved out of the way. I was hoping to find something small and discrete. I could see this getting snagged on things.
By the way, the Hall effect idea has really good merit. There are Hall effect switches that might work with little modification. The bounce switch sounds proprietary and spendy. Lux-RC type spendy. Love those lights, hate the price.
https://www.google.com/search?q=safety+switch+cover
(and then click Image to see them)
Can’t see specs on size but this would be less likely to snag and pop open:
http://www.pilotautomotive.com/lighting/PL-SW58B_grid.html
I found these at the surplus store years ago, still looking for good place to use them. The lower one can be backlit.
I think this is it.
But seriously I think a simple spring loaded hinged plate with a simple little latch, release the latch, the plate springs open giving access to the switch. That or devise a way to put momentary switches on the tail of lights and use a lockout sequence to lock/ unlock the light.
Darn iPhone
1/4 turning the tailcap is a good option for lock out. If we have HAIII anodized tailcaps, wear of anodizing wouldn’t be a problem. As RMM said, always starting the light in low is a good option too. Modifying firmware to use a quick double or tripple click to turn on could work as well, not so? Most of these lights are for show so a slow turn on shouldn’t be a problem…
Kloepper - Glad nothing bad happened. :)
Other than starting the light in low...making the light more complicated would never work or be adopted. Honestly, I sure would not use it. A light is a tool and tools deserve respect, care, and caution.
Here is something to consider. Just about everybody on this forum uses a very dangerous form of equipment that has the potential to burn homes down at an alarming rate...and it does. Yet nobody.....
- Disconnects their vehicles battery when they get home
- Parks away from the home
- Installs fire suppression (let alone a smoke detector) in the garage
- The list goes on and on.
My point is that with respect, care, and caution there is nothing to worry about. The alternative is that we all be forced to get dull knives and empty shells and only luke warm coffee :)
This is that thread. Keep kids away from flashlights
Lukewarm coffee is for Siata, dull knives? NAIVER!
I like keeping my knifes scalpel sharp. If the hair on my arm doesn’t leap off yelping and screaming when the blade clicks open it’s time to break out the sharpener. 
Interesting ideas here. Might actually have something come of some of this. That Pilot switch looks awesome, I can see doing that with a big light. Gotta check it out.
This is a really common feature — nightlights, security lights, PDA and phone brightness controls, computer displays, robots, and more recently flashlights all use the idea.
Seems like a good one to consider.
One of the reasons I don’t have many stunningly bright lights is exactly this concern. Easily five or six times in the past few years someone in my family has noticed a flashlight in a bag or someone’s back pocket that had been on for a while, just from the button being bounced or the light put away forgetfully. They get warm enough even with single cells and moderate brightness and start-on-low as our most preferred option.
Turning on in low mode is sensible. I use some of my lights for self defense as well. A very bright light has deterred an attack from a Doberman Pincer and from a couple of psychiatric patients. So in my unique case I have a real use for scary bright on the first mode. I have had to encorporate safety checks into my routine, making sure the light is locked out when I’m off the floor and leaving work. If I can forget to get another blanket for a patient, then I’m sure I can forget to lockout or remove a battery.
I’m curious about the light bounce idea. Anybody have an idea of what would be involved or how difficult it would be?
Well with the light bounce idea you couldn’t make a fire with it in an emergency, which someone wants to do in another thread here 
yea man low/med/turbo timed high mode lolol. Love your firmwareS! I am constantly turning on my edc lights on in my pocket, people are like "hey your pocket is glowing!" Lol the solid brass direct soldered copper noctigon xml2 is literally burning the dome OFF the led. You can see where it got so hot in the center of the phosphor and has a scorch mark coming out the top of the dome. I was really careful, it was NOT an accidental touch with a soldering iron!! I'll be replacing the led with an xpl soon lol. Work lights for responsible carriers only just like a knife or a gun, NOT for kids!!!
I just thought it kind of funny when it seemed this “fire scare” thread and the “I want a light that can make a fire” threads popped up about the same time.
Battery and steel wool is always a great method, but its not the same as showing off your light that’s so bright you can start fires with it
Why not have both in the same thread simultaneously?
I didn’t have much else going on while I was waiting for the last hour of a burn in cycle I was running so instead of cleaning I made a video.
Edit: apparently embedding the video didn’t work
I haven’t done much with stuff like this before but a the hardware to implement a light bounce sensor is crazy cheap.
I don’t know if you’d be able to plug those into drivers and get the driver to control it all.
With the little that I have done with micro controllers, it is pretty trivial to monitor the light input and do something based on how much light you’re receiving at the sensor.
Crazy here,
My DD triple comes on directly to turbo, no memory… No pocket fires. But I ultra nerd the carry with a nitecore hip holster.
Did have pocket fire once, with an S4 with 79 7135’s and an xml2… Owner of a bookstore came out and caught me rolling an imr in the snow… Turns out he was a flashlight nerd too- now we lunch together.
Burnt my fingers getting it out of my pocket, no expulsions tho
I’m not sure what the correlation is between that and what I did in the video. Besides the thermal coefficient for most things is already known, you just need to look it up.