@lexel will the board fit this: (3) Nichia NVSL219C D280 3000K 80+ CRI LEDs on 20mm 3XP MTN DTP Copper MCPCB ??
I have installed one over a MTN board, it fits
If you are compiling your own hex file based upon the most recent Andúril update, are there any other changes that need to be made to the code? Any changes to the .c file, for instance, to make the auxiliary board function?
Is there a way to slow down the frequency of the blink in aux beacon mode?
I assume the crossed out code denotes that it is deleted or disabled. Correct?
Is that blue+orange or blue+red?
Blue and orange sir!
I’ll be ordering a few more boards from you in a couple days Lexel…thanks!
If I want the aux to be always on, can I just jumper the + & -?
I think You connect -(aux) to grnd on driver. Bridge mcu and (the bridge pads on L) and then or L to +(on mcpcb)
Am I correct to assume that pictures are available at the beginning of this thread?
I would like some suggestions. I want to order a lexel board for my FW3A but I’m not sure which version to order. I might be able to handle some soldering but I want to try to stick to the simplest procedure possible because my hands (and eyes) aren’t good with tedious things anymore. I’m not totally against flashing the board myself but don’t really have the stuff to do it with or the time. High/low option would be cool but not necessary. I have another light that was modded by jku2017 before he stepped away. I like how that one turns on/off opposite the main leds but I kind of wish it still had the bike strobe. I don’t know if there are any other modes that can be replaced to add aux. About the only modes I never use are tactical strobe and muggle. Any suggestions on board or firmware versions would be greatly appreciated. Either that or recommendations for modders who would be willing to do the job would be great. ~I contacted Vinh but he declined.
If you compile using Linux and TK’S optimized settings you don’t have to “sacrifice” anything from the code. Thats why d4v2 or anything else with an aux light or switch light is still fully functional…
Vihn declined and Jku stopped because the 1-2 hours it takes for the mod isn’t economically viable, unless you charge at least $60 to do the mod…and I’m not sure anyone would pay more than the light itself to get aux lights modded in…
D4v2 uses a different mcu with more space for code. Not comparable.
I removed muggle mode when I did mine. Ymmv
They all use the same code. They use you use a different hardware profile when compiling, but the base code is the same. The Anduril.c file is the same. I compiled mine just fine using a full build of the most recent Anduril revision, and didn’t remove anything.
Like I said, Toykeeper has specific compiling instructions within the library, that contain several instruction modifiers that make it compile more efficiently.
I’m not by my computer right now, so I don’t remember what the command is, but its just as states in the Readme file
Any version will work without using the MCU, its just what you want
1.0 is not using LVP and is high/low capable but you cant use low
1.2 voltage stabilized
1.7 voltage stab and LVP
2.0 LVP and high/low which is not used
Doing this Mod on the driver takes like 35-40 minutes if you do it slowly and are experienced with it
I have no problem modding a FW3A for others if they order just a new light to me
I sent out today quite some drivers and Aux boards
I’m a bit late here, but I only recently started playing with Lexel’s aux boards. Here are a few remarks that others might find helpful:
- Yes, the
strikethroughindicates that you should delete the lines. Normal text means that you should add it at the end of the respective file. - Note that hwdef-FW3A.h at the time of writing already has a line that starts with `#define ADC_PRSCL`. You may want to delete that one or else you get an inconsequential warning when you compile the code.
- Be careful when copy/pasting from the above code. The forum botches the `#define INDICATOR_LED_DEFAULT_MODE` statement for cfg-fw3a.h, there are two symbols missing at the end. (Click “Quote” to see the original text.) You can safely just leave the entire line out, there’s a default set elsewhere at the time of writing.
- When the forum displays a fancy “times” symbol instead of a regular letter x, that’s a trap. Use the letter. (Click “Quote” to see the original text.)
- No changes in any other files are necessary, unless…
- If you get a cryptic error that says this-and-that is too large, it means the resulting hex file is too large to flash to your driver. The easiest way around it is to remove a feature you don’t need. For example, to remove Mugle Mode, open the file anduril.c and put two slashes (//) before `#define USE_MUGGLE_MODE` in line 89. That’ll solve the space issue by removing Muggle Mode from the resulting firmware.
At least in Atmel, there’s a compiling option to “optimize for size” that I believe should take care of this.
The bin/build.sh script has a few options which are necessary to make the build fit. I’d strongly recommend using the build script if at all possible.
Hi guys, new here.
I received two of these from a local that didn’t want to try to install them.
I tried the 2-wire route with getting power and ground from the driver to the board.
It’s not lighting up… I’m wondering if there is a way to troubleshoot if I messed up the board itself.
On a multi meter, I am getting current when I check the leads going from the driver to the aux board.
Once all connected, the fw3a works as it should, but the Aux board does not light up. Afraid I might have fried them it somehow.
These are 2.1 boards.
Are these still available?
Lexel has been absent for more than 2 years…