I have no idea too …
Hi Clemence; Just started following this thread last week. Learning lots of details about the newer 219 iterations. Hope to participate with a small order (4 emitters) in your next sale. Steve
Thanks Steve 
Great news… I’ve been waiting for a 5,700k 90CRI 219C for too long. I know some of you guys will stone me to death but I really love CW tints 
I had a 90+ CRI XP-G3 in my EDC for a few months, I am ashamed to say that it was not as horrid as I thought it would be. Although I still tended to wash things out and true colors just didn’t seem to come through as well as the warmer ~4500k.
5700K may be a bit much for me but I can’t wait for high-CRI 5000K. Speaking of, Clemence, do you have full specs on this stuff? Specifically interested in flux bin for any of them.
For workshop and office spaces I always prefer 5700K if possible. Much better awareness and easier to differentiate between colours, especially light coloured objects.
Yes, later when I have them as usual. Nichia decides the voltage and Flux bin, I’ll receive whatever delivered.
My test.
Camera Canon 6D, white balance 4000K. Brightness aligned during developing RAW. The same conditions for all pictures.
Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219B R9050 sm40 Jaxman (aliexpress)
click
Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 Kaidomain
click
Skilhunt H03 TIR Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 3step BLF
click
Bonus: Zebralight H600Fw mk2 Cree XM-L2 4400K 75CRI
click
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The results of the measurements:
Nichia 219B R9050 sm40 Jaxman (aliexpress) - 3600K + strong pink tint.
Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 Kaidomain - 3800K + weak green tint.
Nichia 219C R9050 sm40 3step BLF - 3800K + medium green tint.
Cree XM-L2 4400K 75CRI - 4000K + huge green tint.
Badhakker, now that’s a great comparison. All same host to eliminate any tint variation from different set ups.
This is the Jaxman Nichia, correct?
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-CRI-outdoor-lights-lamp-Nichia-219B-series-LED-flashlights-upgrade-order/1812094_32601022783.html
Yes.
Nice comparison Badhakker. I believe the 3 steps will be consistent across batches although greener. The best bin for those rosy Nichia lovers will be to selectively binning the 7 steps to get anything below the black body locus.
Congratulations badhakker, you did a really good job of exhibiting the variety of 4000K Nichia tints.
To avoid having to scroll during comparisons, I put them in an animated GIF to bump the post, and compare the sequence you listed in another format.
New sale thread with new Nichias: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/43881
Find Texas_Ace member. Then look at his signature posts. He did many tests using the LED from this group buy and more. Should give you the big picture
I have both leds in triple flashlights and indeed the tints are different the way you described. But their spectra should not be all too different, so they should be as good for your purpose. The XPG3 triple is my bicycle light and it is excellent for that.
I would think too that such a cube will handle the 3A, if the mounting of the ledboard is done right, since a simple 18650 tube light already can handle that.
I used 4x 5000K 9080 E21A @350ma for my scooter. The OEM was 6500K low CRI Stanley LED.
Most often glaring is produced by non road legal headlights with no sharp cut off. In my case I’m lucky to have a very good headlight reflector to begun with.
But indeed cooler temp irritates eyes more than lower one.
More LED with lower current each will be more efficient (cooler) than single high current LED.
I use the 4000K 90CRI XP-G3. The heat dispersion will be more than fie in that cube, as long as the leds are on a DTP copper board and there is a sufficient connection for the heat to get to the shell of the cube.
My scooter also don’t use any kind of heat sinking, enclosed in an airtight plastic casing at that power level. Just plain non DTP MCPCB (generous double sided copper pour)