I pulled the base plate out of my SRK. The screws were in REALLY tight. And once I got them out, they looked rusty - I’m not thinking rust, but some sort of adhesive. Not sure. Anyway, one of the screws didn’t survive removal, and I am looking for replacements, but i’m not sure what to order. The 2 screws measure 2.36mmm, and 2.34mm in diameter and 6mm length including head. I’m guessing this is M2.5? Or something non-metric? Also, do I need to worry about different thread patterns? The screws from my fandyfire warrior also fit - so i am guessing they are a pretty common screw. Does anyone have any links for ordering? Length doesn’t worry me as long as they are at least 6mm.
Hi, I’ve updated my personal info. I’m in melbourne , Australia. Thanks. I’m hoping one of the cheapie light stores (fasttech etc) may have what I need, but I can’t find it.
Yes I noted the eBay stainless ones. I was originally thinking stainless, but then I’m thinking the only electrical path from negative to the battery tube is through the screw - and then read about conductivity of steel and thought aluminum may be better even though I hate aluminum screws. And is it m2.5 I need? Any different threads to consider? Thanks for your reply.
This is a good opportunity to mod your light to have tail cap lock out. I think DenBarrettSAR developed the concept with his Rook here. I have modified it slightly and done it to a SRK here (look at 8th pictured down in the OP). It is basically free and very easy to do as follows:
Sand the anodized finish off the landings where the tail cap PCB is screwed down against. These landings will replace the screws as the new electrical contact points to the body. See pic below.
Replace the screws with wooden dowels (I used cooking skewers) to keep the PCB from turning around when the tail cap is tightened and loosened. See pic below.
Put a plastic cap from a milk jug or something between the tail cap and the PCB. You may need to shave it thinner to be able to fully screw down the tail cap
Now. Instead of locking out your SRK at the head (and putting wear and tear on the driver contact pads). Unscrew the tail cap slightly until the light turns off. The springs that press against the batteries will push the PCB away from the body when you do this and break the electrical connection.
Best wishes on finding the screw or doing the above mod.
Love the idea but I hate charging cells inside lights, I’m thinking instead of using that to charge the cells do the opposite and use it so you can charge other USB devices from the cells.
Good idea but would it not require some kind of boost circuit in there also to get the required 5v to the charger board?
I’m sure it would be do-able though.
After searching the internet, i discovered m2.5 is common in laptops, and sure enough first screw I took off an old laptop was m2.5 and fitted perfectly in the light.
