scrutiny on aux led hasn't caught up with proliferation of aux leds

So that means you have to measure amperage at all three color levels. I believe I’ve read that the tail cap has a resistor in it. You cannot measure voltage with the tail cap tight. Measuring voltage with the tail cap loose it starts low and climbs usually to about 3.2, 3.3v on the three different ones that I’ve measured. That is when the battery is at 4.0 volts. So didn’t you say you’re measuring through the contacts on the tail cap? I think there may be some problems there.

I don’t think it’s necessary to measure the current for all colors. We’re talking about microamps.

The tailcap doesn’t contain any electronic parts at all, just a PCB isolated from the tailcap itself. Depending on whether it is screwed tight or not the outer contacts allow an access to both the negative and positive pole of the battery. Well, almost because there’s indeed some voltage drop (in my case 0.65 V). But that doesn’t matter for the current measurement.

Something is different. I have two C2 pros here and at least three other various wizards and I cannot measure voltage with the tail cap tight. Are you saying you can? And if you can, can you also charge it without loosening the cap? With the tail cap loose I get readings yes at 0.3, 0.6 or 0.8 volts less than a true battery reading depending on what mode you had the flashlight in before you loosen the tail cap. It varies quite a bit.

I’ve never said it works when the tailcap is tightened. In that case the battery tube makes contact with the PCB and both contacts on the outside are directly connected. charging works only with loosened tailcap, of course.

Yes, that’s right. I haven’t checked if there’s a difference from the previous mode. But this doesn’t matter if you want to measure the current from the outside.

Okay. The part where you said “Depending on whether it is screwed tight or not…… ” is a little confusing but that’s all right. Back to the program.

Yeah, might have been confusing.

If screwed tight everything shown is on the same potential.

When the tailcap is loosened, the negative pole of the battery is connected via the spring to the center contact. The outer contact is just part of the tailcap and connected via the battery tube with the driver / positive side of the battery.

Wurkkos FC13
Updated main post with test results for the Wurkkos FC13, which has a large multi color button indicator, but no aux on the main light.

Indicator Off = 63uA

Blue Button Indicator, low steady = 106uA, good brightness level.
Blue Button Indicator, high steady = 3.39mA
Blue Button Indicator, blink = 246uA

Red Button Indicator, low steady = 185uA, but too dim to be useful
Red Button Indicator, high steady = 6.3mA
Red Button Indicator, blink = 433uA

Green Button Indicator, low steady = 140uA, good brightness

Rainbow Button Indicator, low rainbow = 181uA
Rainbow Button Indicator, high rainbow = 5.8mA

LVP for high and blinking mode kicks in at about 2.7V, consuming 40uA when LVP cuts off indicator light. That’s pretty good.

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