Seeking advice for how to stack resistors - FX-30 driver mod in Convoy L6

Thank you will34. I’m still a dummy with boards… :blush:

That’s what it thought as well. Lol

You might need to buy a new tip that’s narrow and pointy if your existing one is too rounded. Have good lighting, a clean work space and a magnifying glass. I’ve got a thing called a “helping hand” that can hold the driver and a magnifying glass right over it. Then rig up a good light to shine on it. Use some very pointy tweezers to position and hold it down. If your iron is hot and clean with a tiny bit of solder you should be able to just touch one end for a second and get it done.

There are actually tutorials online for soldering tiny things. Check those out. You can even practice on an old circuit board you have laying around. It’s not that hard.

Yep, I’ll have to re-tool before attempting such a MINI -mod. And I thought I was good when I did an led re-flow……LOL

Hey there,

I tried a resistor mod on my L6 as well. I used a R091 out of another driver I don’t need anymore. I couldn’t really notice a difference to my original other L6. I tried different batteries but not a real difference. I bridged the resistors with a few cm of 22AWG wire. The light didn’t work. It just flashed one time for a tiny bit of a second after clicking the tailcap switch. I have the “silver” version of the light.

Anyone here that has an idea what could be wrong?


Adding the R091 should give you 7.25 A if all spring bypasses are okay. 4690 lm vs. 3800 lm stock should be noticable but difficult so see without direct comparison. Better measure it.
The 22AWG could have triggered the overcurrent protection of your protected batteries.

Is it working without the wire now?

Does anyone know anywhere in the uk an r120 can be found?

Is this the right one? - PANASONIC - ERJ3BSFR12V - RESISTOR 0603 R120 1 0.2W For 5 for sale online | eBay

Or either of these? -\_/N-7h7yu?keyword=R120&P=1ymfaz2

I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to these things :smiley:

Your Mouser link has the needed 1206 size of the R120.

The resistors size is 1206
If you stack in in there it needs to handle about 1.8A

1206 in English measurement
3216 in metric (3.2mm by 1.6mm)

I don’t think I’ve seen them rated in amps, just watts. We need at least a 1/4 watt.

I just found an old circuit board with some 1206 R100’s on it. Is there an easy way to measure, calculate or otherwise determine if these are rated at 1/4 watt?

Not that I know of. I’ve seen that size in both 1/4 and 1/8 watt. I’d try it and see. I guess the worst thing that could happen is it’s not 1/4 watt and might fry itself and your back to stock.

Hi ,please give me a link to this FET driver , and can this driver be used for two XHP70 in paralel and each one to run on 10-12a.
I want to make a monster.

Dales FET driver is pretty custom, you can’t just buy it. It’s a MTN 17mm driver piggybacked on a bigger board and uses TK’s ramping firmware.

If you wanna a good FET, look at Lexels thread about him making some Texas Avenger drivers. I just got one for my L6 and it pulls 12 amps. It also has Narsil ramping firmware in it which is sweet. Cost me about $25 total. Hurry, though as each small batch gets sold out. I just ordered a second one. Lol

Another option is the FET driver at MTN Electronics for the L6. It’s cheaper, but does not having ramping firmware, only multiple levels. Actually, Narsil let’s you choose ramping or levels which is another great feature.

He is using the Texas Avenger driver I am pretty sure. It will handle whatever your batteries can provide assuming that the input voltage and output voltage are close.

See my sig for a link to the thread.

Will these resistors work?
Look what I found on AliExpress

The 0R10?

Yeah, that looks like 1206 size 0.1 ohm. Same as R100.

Random question but hopefully someone knows the answer: I have the non-e switch version of the KD FX-30 driver, and I want to put it in a light with an e-switch. Is it possible to solder an e-switch to the board while I’m resistor stacking and have it work that way? Or will the firmware make that impossible? I have the driver and a spare e-switch, but I’m guessing the firmware won’t let this go together? Hope I’m wrong, there are still two pads on it for an e-switch, but I don’t have the ability to re-flash it if that’s a requirement to make it all work. Thanks a ton.

If it’s a non-e-switch version driver then it would need to have different firmware to recognize the brief power cuts to change brightness.

They would make one firmware for e-switch and one for clicky switch. I don’t think they would even bother trying to combine two different firmwares together especially when it’s not even going to be used. It’s just extra work for no reason.

Where did you find this driver version? I have not heard about it. What do they say about the firmware?

Hi, I don’t have any experience with FX-30 driver. But after gathering some info and images from LHT and Convoy store in Ali, I think the LHT just selling the driver without the e-switch and reversed mode (High to low) but still in 5 mode and hidden strobe. CMIIW.

I got it from KD a few years ago and now I have a light that needs a 30mm driver and 2s 18650, but I guess it won’t work with an e-switch even though the pads are there. I bet you are correct that they wouldn’t put both firmwares on the driver, but I know very little about stuff like that