LG E1 3200mAh cells are 4.35v and so are the LG D1 3000mAh cells. Samsung and Sanyo both make 3000mAh 4.35v cells, but those are as close to 3400mAh as we can currently get.
Chris
Any of the chargers that have selectable voltage like 3.7v would do what youre asking, although not by discharge. They would have have maybe 50-70% charge.
Theres a few that have selectable voltages of 3.7, 4.2 and 4.35. For example the Opus 3100 has an internal switch (need to pop a cover off to access it). I seem to recall someone saying they would buy one and set it permanently to 3.7v and use it purely for storage charging/maintenance of stored cells. Im sure its not the only one.
and I have an Xtar WP2H that offers all three: 3.2v, 3.6v, and 3.8v
Yeah, I’m in earthquake-and-fire country, so there are lots of tradeoffs.
Completely extraneous to the issue in the thread, but looking at light use. What I would really like to do is build a shelter (probably underground) to live through a fire. Probability wise; much higher than the other threats. In 10 years there have been 3 fires within 1-2 miles of us. Go to 15 years, and there was another about 50 ft from our property (across the road). In my mind, that is a lot.
There is only one road. I could go cross country if the road was on fire. My wife has limited mobility. No way she could hack it. A small shelter, with an internal air supply (some tanks) and some amenities, would keep us alive. I need to look at how to protect a small shelter. If I buried it, the door would be the biggest issue. Air conservation could also be complicated in the low pressure at the heart of a firestorm.
Lighting your underground bunker will be the least of your worries. People build and sell various ‘turnkey’ shelters/bunkers, so use Google to research things.
Chris
Deleting so nobody does it 
I don’t think that Efest rewraps 4.35v cells, either from LG, Sanyo or Samsung, so I don’t think that I’d be charging my 3.6/3.7v cells up to 4.35v, if I were you.
Good luck to you, however.
Chris
Yes well aware it’s not the smartest thing but they stay that way for maybe 5 minutes total time. When I have a melt down i’ll be sure to update
BTW I typo I put the charger settings so it can do 4.35 but the efest only get to 4.32
There should be a big warning on this post. For those that don't know mwfire is charging his batteries way past the manufacturers specification which should never be done. Just because he has dodged the bullet up to now does not mean he will tomorrow. This is not a smart a clever thing to do. Manufacturers have a spec on items for a reason and the dangers of Lithium Ion batteries have been well documented.
Probably should just delete what I do so nobody does it.
deleted.
You really think they’ll burn down going .13 volts over for 5 or 10 minutes max then back down to 3.7? I get an extra half an amp when I juice them up!
Besides if they were going to burn down or blow wouldn’t they do that while i’m pumping 2 to 3 amps in to get them at that level?
I mean I do it all the time with these batteries probably at least 20 times. I attached a picture of how I store them and I keep them in my metal cabinet.
Burn down would be fine but if they blew up!!!
I have some rated for 4.35 as well they get to that level but don’t give me the power the efest batteries do. They rock at 4.2 thou maybe I should just stop juicing them.
If your battery is specced to 4.35 , then I say yes.
Although i’m still unsure why buy 4.35 batteries with less mAh than 4.2v batteries
Well yes I expect them to burn down slowly not explode.
Or go to a blazing hell when they are hooked up the the DC power supply while I’m pumping in the amps to juice them up higher. That’s when I get a bit nervous actually not when they are 3-4 volts in those jars
Thanks I’ll youtube it.
With all of my sniffing about I found a very interesting tool. Take a look. The link points to an example I set up. It shows the difference just between 4.3 and 4.35.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php
I also would support asking each of us or an admin removing the pieces referring to over charging a cell. I am not a cell expert, but I really think it would be bad for someone even less aware to stumble across it and figure: hey, these are smart guys. I can do that. Type responsibly.
For the record I never claimed to be smart. I deleted exactly how I do it.
Yes, but all the quoted copies and related discussion remains.
> wouldn’t they do that while i’m pumping 2 to 3 amps ….?
<a href=“”lithium-ion” battery membrane breakdown damage degrade degradation crystal growth”\ - Google Search>LMGTFY
EDIT, that attempt to give you a search fails for some reason. Search on this:
“lithium-ion”+battery+membrane+breakdown+damage+degrade+degradation+crystal+growth
and you’ll see how many ways damage accumulates over time, heat, and charge cycles.
Somewhere in there you’ll see that just 50 cycles to maximum charge can lower the battery capacity into the 80-percent range, while charging a tenth of a volt less keeps battery capacity high much longer.
So it’s not a trivial thing to consider. Trying to get that tenth of a volt into the cell on every charge may well result in having less battery capacity within months.
The bugaboo is having some of the chemicals start forming crystals that slowly, slowly grow larger — and sometimes poke a hole through the membrane that’s supposed to keep them from reacting quickly and degrading rapidly.
For values of degrading quickly that may include heat, smoke, poison gas, and sometimes flames — almost certainly not right now, maybe not tomorrow or next week, maybe never.
Maybe surprise.
It’s one of those “do ya feel lucky? well, do ya?” kinds of situations you produce when you push lithium-ion cells into conditions known to degrade them.
Thanks for the warning smaller lights I hope those efest batteries stay out of my bed I didn’t know they were like bed bugs! I don’t want them to crawl under my bed and burn me alive i used my IMAX B6 and took them down to 1 volt so I’m hoping they will stay safe until I can take them to the recycle center next week.
Metal box.
Outdoors, on concrete or something else nonflammable.
That’s not only where you should be keeping your flaky overdischarged cells.
That’s ample caution for how to set up for charging anything you have.
You will eventually be less careful than the best practice advises — that’s normal for any and probably all of us.
But you do not want to mess with unreliable cells.
It’s not the amount of charge in them that causes fires.
A fully charged cell and a flat zero volt cell both have the same amount of flammable liquid inside them.
It’s the chemistry, no matter what the state of charge, if there’s damage to the membrane inside.
Think of this as evolution in action.
A note on why buy a 4.35 with a lower mAH rating. Look at this comparison.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php
The LG 4.35 appears to generate more power than the higher mAH rated cell. If I am interpreting the graph properly, the LG will deliver more useful power. Lowest useful voltage will alter the outcome some. The more even voltage drop in the LG is, I believe, a function of a fairly scarce chemistry using an Aluminum component (anode or cathode, I forget).
I would be happy to be shown the error in my thinking by someone with more knowledge. But so far, this is my conclusion. I did not see anything on the extensive list used by the graph I linked that beat the LG 4.35. Now price and availability may alter the solution.