Same SKU from KD, just not the same sample as in OP. Do not ask me why I saw slightly higher output.
Yeah, the resistor you linked to from FT was the same as I used.
Not sure if I followed you in edit 1. But you want to see 1,8A+ and you only want to use one resistor.
If you have something in the R330 - R430 range you might want to try one of those. If not, R500 will give you a little increase. I don't know your input current though. As said, R500 gave me roughly 0,3A increase from what I started with..
What I meant was, if I am getting 1.36A emitter current at 12v now with no add'l resistors, what would I add on top of the R120 to get to 1.8A or even 2.0A?
I have 0.5R, 0.22R, & 0.12R as far as low value resistors go. What would adding a 0.22R instead of the 0.5R do?
I would just put on the 0.22R and see where that takes you. Just make sure you see the emitter amps when you turn on the driver. Some drivers work in mysterious ways, so just be ready to turn it off in case you get very high current for some strange reason. Always test on a emitter that you do don't care about. Again, in case the driver work in mysterious ways.. :p
Id guess you need around that 0.22R in order to get where you want to go. I have not done the math though. Give it a shot..
To calculate the total resistance of multiple same value resistors just divide one resistor value by the number of resistors used.
Example: .5R + .5R + .5R + .5R = .5 / 4 = .125
To calculate the total resistance of multiple different value resistors:
TotalResistance = 1 / ((1 / RValue1) + (1 / RValue2) + …)
Example: .2 R + .5 R = 1 / (1 / .2) + (1 / .5) = 1 / (5 + 2) = .14
I find this easiest to do by setting it up in a spreadsheet and then just plugging in the values I know.
Edit: This is the theory, and assumes that the other components of the driver can handle in the increase current. I have found it to be a pretty good predictor in the few drivers I’ve modified. Your driver may react differently.
Ugh! Last time I listen to you! Installed resistor (its smaller than the R120 original). Tested with a single Li-ion @ 4.14v gave 1.68A. Connected to car battery and within a second "POOF"! Dead! Driver outputs test showing a short (0.2 ohms) and the LED won't light direct drive from an 18650. Ugh!
I really didn't expect this to happen. Does it make sense? Or do you think I might have done something else like overheat the new resistor when I soldered it on? Since the new resistor was smaller than the original, I had to "drag" solder across the top of the bottom resistor to connect to the new one. Here is a pic but I don't know that you can tell much (pic prior to burning up the driver), best I could get with my phone:
The black lead is coming right over top of the sense resistor I added. You can see my solder blob to the right side of that resistor where I "drug" the solder over top of the bottom resistor.
The first link - that's what I bought originally and am using now. The second link - I forgot about that driver. Biggest issue I see is that I need a "pill" of some sort to mount the driver in. I would also really like to get rid of the next mode memory.
Ah, FastTech does have a "driver pillar" which takes a 22mm driver and should have about 15mm depth. $3.96 each though, so this & 2 new drivers raise the price of my build. I won't pursue this until someone can remove that next-mode memory on that driver though!
Interesting Garry. As far as I saw while looking quickly over it, there was no solution to the next mode memory, only a way to make it into a one mode. I would like to have the modes on mine.
I actually saw 2.15. But i noted 2,13 (as mentioned earlier). But that was after the R500 was added, and at around 5V input.
You are talking about emitter current right? I remember a few who mentioned theirs were 2A in some threads, but the ones I and Garry got were 1,5A max, and generally lower.
And remember, after resistor mod mine was apparently ok at low voltage (single li-ion). It wasn't until I went for 12v+ that I blew it up. But RaceR86, you did test up to 16v with the R500 added, right? And yours didn't blow, although we don't know how long it would last that way.
I'm thinking I'll just go ahead with these drivers stock in my current build and if I feel I'm not getting enough output I'll consider upgrading to that driver from LightsCastle (perhaps converted to single mode) with new pills; might be next year though.
Update on my voltage readings in post#13: I used my meter which has been found to be out of calibration by mistake (I forgot). It appears to read approximately 0.10v too high. I really need to either get rid of the meter, figure out how to calibrate it, or at least put a label on it to remind me.
Installed resistor (its smaller than the R120 original). Tested with a single Li-ion @ 4.14v gave 1.68A. Connected to car battery and within a second "POOF"! Dead! Driver outputs test showing a short (0.2 ohms) and the LED won't light direct drive from an 18650. Ugh! 
