What I’ll probably do is go ahead with a BLF17DD Z FET driver, limited on the top end with a target in this range, around 4A. But with 5 modes instead of 4. Maybe even 7.
The FET driver doesn’t run hot, so there’ll be that much less heat as compared to the 7135 chipped board. And in so doing, I’ll customize the placement of the levels so that Turbo has a big jump over high, keeping 4 levels down in the useful range, bumping moon to be more usable as well. Then Turbo will be the big bang theory for playing, opening people’s eyes and making they’re jaws hang slack.
Ooh that copper is pretty. Do you think that you would be able to drill and tap it for the screws needed to put on a clip. I like to clip my lights into my front pocket. Some of the different ones that I was looking at are this one and also a stylish Ti clip here
I am leaning toward the titanium but have not a clue how to curve the attachment part. Maybe sheer brute force and fire?
Southland, build an BLF17DD or get em from Richard at mountainelectronics, absolute most power you can get and you can control it down with a lesser cell. The Sony C5 or it’s ilke will net over 6A to an XM-L2, 4ish from a protected cell of lesser capabilities.
Amazingly beautiful, exquisite craftsmanship from afar! Kinda shames my other Cu lights….
Tight, best description of the body.
Feels hefty in hand. The switch is awesome.
Now to build this puppy.
Thanks Sinner!
I might have gotten a bit carried away. I left the FET driver, the BLF17DD, unrestricted. Luminus emitters have low Vf. This SBT-70 is no exception. With an AW IMR18350 it will pull over 11A for 1570 lumens. :bigsmile:
I smooth it down by using an Efest IMR18350 V1 flat top cell, at 6.76A and 1180 lumens. So far so good.
Dale, do you think a TIR would yield a longer tighter beam in that set up? Oh, and also, 11A Holy Cow! I assume XML2 but what bin? How long until too hot for comfort?
BTW, are you feeling Ok? Only two pictures and less then half of the juicy details. Thats kinda weird.
The XM-L2 simply won’t do 11A, the bond wires fry at or just over 8A.
This is the Luminus SBT-70. The only circular die that I’m aware of and one of the first “factory de-domed” emitters, not having the typical silicone dome but instead having an AR coated glass lens covering it for protection. This is neat, it’s what drew me to the emitter in the first place, but it’s also a detriment.
Normally our reflectors or at leas the centering rings go on/around the emitter or it’s substrate. With this large glass lens over the die, and an already large die substrate, this just isn’t really feasible, not in a small light anyway. So I had to cut the raised portion off the bottom of the tubular style reflector that Sinner uses in these lights to allow the die to be as close as possible to the opening in the reflector. I also had to fit the copper pill by widening the star opening, after cutting the 20mm MT-G2 Noctigon star down as much as was feasible. The Luminus is a huge emitter, bigger than the MT-G2 but conveniently overlapping the contacts enough to use the MT-G2 copper star.
Luminus emitters also have much lower Vf, allowing higher current rates. This one is rated for a max 10.5A, but obviously it want’s more. I’ve got a Luminus SST-90 in a C8 that pulls right at or slightly over 16A. They pull loads of amperage, but are not as good as Cree emitters at convering amps to light output, so they do get HOT! I figured this solid copper light would be a good candidate for such an emitter. If the switch can hold up. Working on Sinner to make me a new tailcap that can take a McClicky or MattAus’s new SmartSwitch (not yet available) The light is just too small to use a Tofty. (I’m thinking about making a Tofty work, which would entail some crafty use of my rotary) As for now, I’m using a lesser cell for 6.76A and hoping the switch doesn’t cave.
I didn’t post loads of pics as well, this isn’t my thread. And I’m working on over 2000 pics from the last wedding, am, quite frankly, tired…
Edit: FWIW, this emitter does 15.67A on a Sony C5 18650. The 11A is from an 18350.
Sinner, I am looking to find a clip to hold your light in my pocket. What is the length of the 18350 copper? Also, if I sent you the clip, do you think you could drill and tap the tail of the light to fit the clip?
(I’m thinking about making a Tofty work, which would entail some crafty use of my rotary) As for now, I’m using a lesser cell for 6.76A and hoping the switch doesn’t cave.
, really looking forward to that! 
