Sorry but based on that picture, I really can't tell. It's way too complex, and the ICs are similar body yet unmarked, this is just way beyond me.
I would only suspect, since there are three 6pin SOIC placed evenly, those may be your N power MOSFETs (2 gates each chip). 3 toroids - must be stabilizing current per LED. And the 8pins may be linear regulator, but I can't explain why there are so many. One has got to be MCU, so 5 left... don't make much sense.
I would leave this alone.. a 3xNANJG master-slave driver transplant would be much easier.
i dought it . Every now and then there comes along a model that remains among the top !!!. Kind of like a good song. The o light sr90 is a few years old , still$400 + :(
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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Pulsar. I did a search on the 3 x nanjg setup you suggested. Looks pretty straight forward (famous last words) will give it a try. Dose anyone know if it would be possible to keep the same switch (love that switch) I’m also left wondering what is the Kings driver doing that i would be missing out on going down the 3 x nanjg 105c master/slave route? apart from under driving my led’s.
If I were you, I would just leave it alone. 1200lumens is a lot of light, and that longer runtime is something a lot of people wish for in the King. Some does not buy it simply based on the fact it does not have a medium.
OR, drill a new hole, put new boot, 10A clicky, 5W 0.1ohm resistor... and drive it separately at an awesome 10A Turbo mode. And laugh at all the normal Kings puny output.
My guess is that the single 8-pin chip is the mode controller. The other 8-pin chips might by transistors.
I'd not go for direct drive, but use the triple NANJG setup. I have a very well suited NANJG105C as the master board with custom firmware for that electronic switch. It would give a much richer UI.
Since the driver is glued and the light gives so much light, I have not yet messed with mine yet, though.
Well, if you go this route, you should use a resistor initially. 0.1ohm is a good start, it would limit max 10A (assuming battery is full at 4.2V and your LED Vf is 3.2V) and sink 1W, driving your LEDs at 3.3A each.
The risk is, if your LED Vf are poorly matched, the lower Vf LED will take more current then the others, shortening its life.
On the other hand, DrJones NANJG master board is highly recommended, you can request any modes you like pre-programmed. PM him for pricing. And since this is based on AMC7135, you can pick how much current you'd like for each LED easily.
I can imagine you checking the tracking website daily, heheh... :) it can be frustrating indeed. Don't worry, it's already there, soon you'll be holding that magic light-producing coke can.
