Skyray King / FandyFire UV s5 resistor mod help needed

Hi,

I have been reading posts here in the BLF to find out how to mod my Fandy Fire UVs5.
It seems to be quite similar to the SRK.

I have modded the springs, and I will changes the wires with 24awg wires (should be sufficient I think).
Next step would be the the resistor mod.
I have done some AMC chip soldering already, more or less worked. But hey, that stuff is tiny…

With an other flashlight, I have done a resistor mod, and it worked for me, ’cos I found some dump-proof pics on the internet…

Could somebody post dump-proof pics of the driver, with marks on the resistors which have to be changed?
I think I have the “three thingie” driver, thats what the seller said.

I think I will put piggy back style the resistors on the existing ones.
I need 30k resistors, right?
I am not a pro regarding SMD soldering, but I hope I can make that…

Ohter question: how do I get the on/off button out, so I can get the driver board out?

Many thanks for your help,
florian

I am not a big SRK modder. I’ll tell you a few things though. Also, I think you mean “idiot-proof” or “dummy-proof” :slight_smile: (I do not think that dump-proof is an English idiom).

  • Getting the switch out: If you have unscrewed the retaining ring for the switch and the switch PCB does not want to come out you’ll probably have to try something else. You can remove the bezel from the front of the light, remove the glass, remove the reflector, and keep going. The reflector may be attached to the LED ledge and the LED ledge may be screwed into the body.
  • I don’t think you need 30k resistors. What makes you say that? Link? Maybe you need some R030 (0.030 Ohm), I don’t know.
  • There are many drivers for the SRK clones, including several with “three thingies”. People will be able to better help you once you’ve taken pictures and posted them.
  • Many people here will tell you that you need to do another step before the resistor mod. You should mount the LEDs on “DTP” type MCPBCs - “direct touch”. Such as Noctigon or SinkPad. Otherwise you are likely to have LEDs burn out. I have personally never tried using the stock MCPCB (basic Aluminum Star).

hi wight,
thanks for your reply.
ok it’s a 2 or three terroid driver :slight_smile: supposed to be 3 terroid
it says 30k, that might mean 0,03 ohm

is ist the r010 resistor to piggyback, or the other ones?
here it says the 153

post 122

and here is a pic where it says changing the 153 resistors, I have thought I I have to change the 010…

I was thinking about some Noctigons, but that might not make a serious difference, when the temitter does not get more amps.
thanks
florian

Thank you for the links. For now I will recommend sticking with Pavithra_uk’s instructions. Pavithra_uk explains that op-amps are used to facilitate lower sense-voltage in post #106. As explained in that post, modding just the three 153 resistors (which are 15000 ohms) will increase the gain on the op-amp. That’s a perfectly fine thing to do!

I’m pretty certain that you could also piggyback an R040 on the R010 and go from 2A to 3A per LED.

You are correct, at 3A per emitter I think the regular MCPCB is OK.