yes mod affect all modes. low modes done by PWM. so low mode will be higher than before.
Well...I am totally depressed about this one. I hate it when a mod goes bad. It really wrecks my mojo. Anyway, I swapped out the resistors and replaced the thin wiring with 22ga silver plated copper with silicone insulation. When I put it all together it is on as soon as the threads connect and only one emitter lights. It is the one connected to the middle torroid. Switch does nothing and the only way to turn the emitter off is to seperate the head and body. I can't figure out what went wrong or how. I'm hoping one of you might spot something I missed. :(
JohnnyMac: It happened to me that, after reconnecting the LEDs with new wires, i shorted something in the middle toroid's driver and one LED turned on when batteries were inserted, and it started to DIM (and if I let that way the led was going to burn) that means that it was direct driven, so then I tried with only one 18650 to not take any risks. When pushing the button, the other two leds turned on, then low mode but one led was always ON no matter the switch was pressed or not.
Then I realized that a (-) cable was barely shorting another close contact, I don't remember exactly where but I think that it's happening the same to you, at least with one of the LEDs...
Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback. I will have another look and take a better pic of that area for you to have a look if I don’t spot anything.
I don't see anything. Do you? If you need a better pic of anything in particular just let me know.
Is it pure coincidence that only two of your three positive leads are bridged to a toroid leg? Are those connected via the PCB anyway?
There are some great high res pics of the driver back on the first page. Zoom in real close with your PC and compare them to your driver. It sounds like solder bridged something it shouldnt have.
Just out of curiosity, did you actually measure your resistors with a MM before putting the them in? I’ve seen bad resistors before, even 0ohm (internally shorted) right off the reel.
Measure the resistance across the LM358 pins, not across the resistors. You could have some bad solder joints that are not making contact.
@Pavithra_uk, as I see you’re a real expert. I wonder if you can simply use a ATTiny13A from Nanjg 105C?
Is this useful without reprogramming? I do not know how to reprogramming. 
Thank you
The standard firmware of a NANJG105C does not work with an electronic switch.
Thank you! I understand. 
subscribing
thanks for all the work, DrJones.
I guess when DrJones finds time to wrap up that amazing UI, I will finally cave, and buy a SRK. or two.
You can find cheap USB AVR programmer for under 5$
then programming ATTiny13A is not a big deal
@DrJohnes:
Its better if you can wrote program for ATTiny13A with basic modes only (High-Med-Low / strobe)
This is OK?
yes this is it
I have this programmer
tested.
Hey
I got this SRK and have a few questions:
- two of the stars are black, one white. All the pictures I’ve seen of SRK’s they are always white, I presume that the emitters are the same?
- the wires to the emitters looks very thin, can they handle the 2A load or do they restrict the amp to the emitters?, will upgrading the wires give any visual difference in output?
- the LED’s are mounted on a rather thin alu disk, should I change it for a copper disk if I resistor-modded the driver, or is the alu ok to get rid of the extra heat?
this one seems to fit just perfect
did you buy that online or is that a custom job?
if the former, link please!
it’s salvaged of a waterbased CPU-cooler