I had the original SRK and I miss it a little. I may consider one of the 4xXM-L2 or 6xXM-L2 models if I could find one I knew would be pushed hard enough.
Which is the brightest stock unit? Kung or King?
Did anyone buy the 6xXM-L from wallbuys? Pretty sure that it won’t be able to output the claimed 4000LM, but it must be floodier than the 3XM-L ones, and this one price seems ok. If it gives out 2000LM I will be happy.
Was asking myself, all being equal if a 6-XML will overheat as much as a 3-XML. Each led being driven harder on a 3-xml than on 6-xml. it will give out more heat… or maybe not?
There is also a 7-XML SKR with chinese 9000 Lumen output 
Anyone?
I have a 6x and several 3x, believe it or not the spot is smaller on the 6x one. And XML2 versions have been out for quite a while (CNQG, and that Securitylng clone thing, though they advertise it as XML some are shipping out with XML2s). There's even 6x versions with XML2s.
No-name '6XL2' dissection, This Securitying Flashlighter (lolwut?) is insane, 6x fast tech King XM-L2 no name (very nice), Securitylng? Really? SRK Clone from ebay - Unboxing, initial thoughts and amp draws - Updated with tear down photos., etc.
I have no direct experience but the impression I got from researching their lights like the Rook, Knight, and Shadow clones is that despite the name their products are good. Also, on Fasttech you get what you pay for in my experience. Cheap lights are cheap and expensive lights are better. I think if it costs as much as a real SRK on FT, it should be good to go. Should being the operative word…
Yes, FandyFire UV-S5
Very good King Clone. One of the better ones, with the three toroid driver and replacing the three sense resistors with lower value ones will make it a powerhouse. Look for this thread for ideas on the Kings and that particular driver.
Actually, I would go with the less expensive version, as I had good luck with them.
I have seven of these lights in various clones, emitters, and have two original SRKs. (a cool white gold one, and a warm white black one.) The original will have the three-torrid coil driver, a stainless steel bezel, and a real “paracord” lanyard. the clones all have a shoe-lace type lanyard, and most have an aluminum bezel with various plain and different drivers.
The $ 49 Fandyfire UV-S5 is the closest you will find to the original SRK as mentioned above, it has the thre torrid driver, a paracord lanyard,and i believe the SS bezel.
I can not get the bottom off this one, it seems glued on.
Funny thing is each of the other ones looks different under the bottom cover. some have wires at different places and one has a solid silver plate and no wires or circuit boards.
I will try again with something rubber to grip it. I do not want to scratch it up.
heat it up with a hairdrier or hot water, then use two rubber strap-wrenches if you have them. ( its how i got mine apart.)
I bought this one from brotherhuang before the holidays: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-6500-Lumen-4x-CREE-XM-L-XML-U2-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4x18650-Light-M4-Gray-/400505953086?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item5d4003db3e. Its the only king I own so I don’t have much to compare it to. It seems pretty good to me but the threads suuuuck. I tried cleaning them up but they are gritty as can be and feel terrible. The machining on the outside looks great though. I have no real way of telling if its a clone or not but it seems a tad bit brighter than my fandyfire warrior so im satisfied.
That looks like the Skyray Kung M4. I have one of those from the same seller, and its brighter than all my stock SRK Kings and my Warrior too. He seems to have all the “good” SRK lights on ebay.
The threads on mine though was good and greased when i recieved it. I have modded mine with only XM-L2 Emitters, and use it alot camping for bright bursts of light.
What about the version that Manafont sells? One integral pad or separate stars? What driver? It’s just expensive enough to give the potential of quality. And it has the red button ring. for an irrational reason I really want the red button ring.
+1 on ComfyChair's recommendation.
I have had several different 3 x XML SkyRay Kings, gold and black, from Wallbuys, Fasttech, and eBay. I also had a gunmetal 4 x XML Skyray Kung M4. Honestly, for the money buy the Securitying from eBay for $35. File down the emitter spacers, change the location of the positive LED leads (bypass resistors), and you will have an absolute monster! I put 3 x XM-L2 on Noctigons in mine and according to my light meter it is more than twice as bright as my best 3 x SRK, which was a little bit brighter than the 4 x Kung. This thing is in another league altogether. The name is lame, but this light is mod friendly and has a lot of potential. Don't pass it up!
"With a name like SecurityIng, it has to be good!" Copyrighted? :P
Still ain't no Uranusfire
Thing is, I’m not looking for a monster. I don’t want another direct-driven battery-burner, I already have that in my DRY’ed 3T6. XM-L2’s, maybe 2 amps per emitter, less if it’s more than 3 emitters., and the sinking to deal with the heat that would generate. That’s all I’m really looking for.
So leave the stock limiting resistors in place. The light has good machining, good reflector, good lens, everything fits properly (unlike a similarly priced fake SRK), and has a nice thick screw-in plate under the LEDs. Replace the puny 3-up MCPCB with 16mm copper, add a short spring under the switch button, and give it a brain transplant (105C flashed with momentary switch firmware) and you just turned a $35 light into a $100 light.
If anyone knows about this...it definitely is comfychair
Not to beat a dead horse but I had a question.
A real SRK or the Fandy UV-S5 are about $50. A quality knockoff like the Securitying, an order of 7135 driver boards, and a donor 105C from DrJones/RMM plus a handful of chips is going to amount to the same total.
So which is the better option? What advantage does the three-toroid driver hold over a 7135-based unit? Is it simply maintenance of a given brightness level until battery exhaustion?
No, the older 3-toroid driver is just needlessly complex. Without a boost driver, and the input voltage so close to the LED's Vf, it doesn't make much difference whether it's a buck driver or linear driver or direct drive with current limiting resistors. The only difference will be losses from driver inefficiency, which will be small even with a 'bad' driver.
Runtime/light output if all drivers are running at the same output current will be about the same. You might could find differences between them on a light meter, but you'd never see it in actual use in either light output or runtime.
The old 3-toroid SRK drivers are available separate from Wallbuys, if for some reason you want one. It'll still have the same non-UI as always.