Maybe not the slimmest but for EDC use theres also lights like the Zebralight SC52 which have battery indicator mode.
The Battery Indicator on the SC52 is just simply a step-down and flash, similar to many models on the market.
I’d like to be able to know if the battery needs charged prior to needing it, as I keep mine in my vehicles. I don’t like being in a situation where I’m wondering “how much have I used this since the last charge and will it go dead when I need it most?”
It has a finder light, it blinks every x seconds to find the light in the dark. You can also deactivate it. I have the armytek prime c1 pro as an EDC light and soon the klarus Mi7. The armytek prime A1 pro is also nice. It also offers a voltage checker with i think 3 double clicks. It will tell you the exact voltage in a blink code, like 3.5V Has also a magnet in the tailcap. All in all more features compared to the zebralights. It even tells you when overheating. So this thing has battery level monitoring with the colors and it has a voltage checker
I have the AT Prime A2, and I measure the lowest moonlight mode to use only 2.2mA of current. I suspect the C2 version would likely use much less than 1mA. You could always use the lowest moonlight mode (there are two moonlight levels) as an indicator. That wouldn’t be advisable if you leave it on all the time, but a few nights would be manageable without draining the battery much.
Nice!
Is Armytek doing any coupon on those?
Thats the downside, armytek is not available at banggood or gearbest and usually the prices are pretty stable. The offer sometimes 10% or something like that. Maybe you have more luck in the US, here in europe the dealers are strict with the prices, same with any non chinese shop selling manufacturer like zebralight or eagtac. Thats why i mostly buy klarus, nitecore,sunwayman and such brands. I got mine in a rare xmas flashdeal from a german shop. But the prime pro is a nice light and the super matte anodizing is unique in the flashlightworld. You dont need to turn the flashlight on for that locator mode, the sideswitch just blinks from time to time to find it in the dark
Yes, Armytek makes nice lights, and I think they’re priced very reasonable for what you get. You certainly won’t get a tougher light for the price. IMO, the only downside to AT lights is that they’re larger and heavier than other brands, because they’re built with more material and protection. If you don’t need that extra protection, then a brand like Zebralight is a better choice. I like both brands.
On the Zebralights I have they blink between 1 and 4 times to indicate charge level which is usually enough info for me to determine whether the battery needs charged or not.
Yes, but I don’t find them very accurate on NiMH batteries.
I seldom use battery indicators. It’s so easy to throw in a freshly charged battery every couple of days (if I’m using the light a fair bit), I know I always have plenty of power left.
The XTAR WK42 has a low power indicator on the clicky but only on RCR123s, no indicator for primaries. I don’t know how you feel about RCR123s (not a very long run time) but it’s a nice small light with decent power. Pretty cheap right now at their ebay store ($9.30).
Hi,
It looks like Calvin at illumn.com has some of the Armytek’s on sale now:
Armytek Prime A1 Pro Neutral White XM-L2 345 Lumens (Silver Bezel)
Armytek Prime C1 Neutral White XM-L2 370 Lumens (Silver Bezel)
$40.
Armytek Prime A2 Pro Neutral White XM-L2 465 Lumens (Silver Bezel)
$41
I believe those are the older versions, using the XM-L2 emitter. The new versions of those lights use the XP-L emitter, and are slightly higher output (and a higher price too). But those older versions are nice lights, and still very modern when compared with most brands. And yes, those are good prices.
I was so ready to order from them until I realized the sales are limited to lights that are not 18650.
I’ve got too many 18650 not to stay with that battery size.
The 2xAA lights still have good run times, and output of 500 lumens. Personally, I prefer AA lights, as I don’t have to worry about dangers with Eneloops, nor low-voltage cutoff leaving me in the dark prematurely.
But, yeah, if you want 1000 lumens and small, you have to go with 18650.
What dangers with Eneloops? Have I missed something or is this a new counterfeit NIMH issue?
SMM
No danger at all with Eneloops. That’s what I was trying to say. There are potential dangers with lithium-ion cells. With AA Eneloops (or any NiMH batteries), I don’t have to be concerned about that.