small sun zy-t13: aspheric xre (200k+ lux!!!) back from the dead!

So I decided on an xre ez900 for this, and I’m going to run it off two lifepo rcr123a in a crelant 1x18650 tube.
Haven’t done any amp readings yet until I’m ready to swap the emitter.

Anyone know a fast us based supplier of thermal adhesive? I’d like it to be here by Saturday if I order it tomorrowif at all possible. Cheap would be a plus too

ok, im slow getting around to this… but heres the shorty zy-t13 with collimator head. lens came with pits all over it so i tried to “return to sender”, but the post office was smarter than me. i didnt want to pay for shipping or wait a week to get a new one. so it is what it is. dont effect beam at all, but had higher hopes for crelant.


now i just got to get some thermal adhesive so i can swap the emitter and see if i need to mod the driver to get it to push the xre hard enough

yes, im slow, i know…

If the Crelant body tubes are fitting than the Shadow TC750X and TC350 should fit also. Customlites.com is selling the stainless steel single 18650 body tube for $13.

Can you verify that they are infact a fine fit? And do they have tailcaps too? I can get a crelant body tube and tail cap for $20 shipped.


Pulsar here is a wall shot, zy-t13/xm-l2 u2 1c on left keygos m10 xm-l t6 on right. Stock driver in zy taill cap current went from 880 ma to 957 ma on hi after the swap. I like the color :slight_smile:

I’m looking for a crelant tube. Where can I get that?

Can you kids see the picture?

No.

+1
dont know how i missed this

What picture? :stuck_out_tongue:

ok just a little update… i am finally getting around to swapping the emitter and did some amp readings with the stock driver. on two samsung laptop pulls im getting 1.99a at the emitter, and with a single TFF with the crelant ttube im getting 1.44-1.5a at the emitter. those are stock numbers. i will see what the changes, if any, are when i put the xre ez900 in it


heat sinking? what heat sinking?

update:
ok, xre with the stock reflector is junk. huge black hole in the center. the focal length changed enough that you dont have to back the collimator head as much to get perfect focus. man that hotspot is HOT. from about 8’ away the hot spot is about the same size as a 2d LED mag, but square not round so less area. and its got to be about 10 times as intenst as the stock 2d mag


ok, ive said it before and i will say it again… i suck at taking pictures. but here it is. the maglight looks like just one giant hotspot, but it is not. it is your everyday typical 2d mag. also, you cant really tell in the pic just how much more intense the t13 is then the mag… but it gives you an idea.

now i need a lux meter.

i hope i get another snow flurry here tonight, i cant get the beam to show up on camera right now… pencil beam though. im more than happy how it came out. i think an oring or two placed on before the head would make a good spacer.

any recommendations on a good cheap lux meter guys?

I’ve been using this one with consistent results.

It’s sold out.
On another note… How can I get rid of the artifacts in the beam? I used a black magic marker on the isolation disk, but I’m thinking black construction paper would work better.

And its snowing today. I’m hoping it stays snowing until tonight so I can get some pics lol

Come Monday, or sometime this week it will magically be not sold out. Wallbuys is on CNY holiday and marked most of their items as Sold Out.

Duh haha… Seemed to have forgotten about that


about 70’ away to tree line that it is focused on



just out into the sky

and an update. i have a 20mm xpg sinkpad on the way to reflow an xre to for this. and i have not yet 100% decided to make it a shorty yet.i also have an xre r2 on the way too from fasttech. will i be able to tell if its actually an r2? no, but i can hope. and hoping it is an ez900 too…

+1

and, I got a fair increase in lux by removing the front (flat) lens from the collimator head (I’m assuming that’s the one you meant is pitted)