Why is this AMP thing such a contest ?
Higher AMP's = more heat , faster output sag and more stress on the LED and components ...
Having said that , mine has pulled over 5A something like 5.6A on a fresh cell ... 
Your 980l or your MF drop-in?
MF P60 drop in ...
I fully understand that lumen gains over about 3.5 amps are incremental. Still, though; I can't help it. I'm through apologizing for getting jazzed when my 980L pulls 5 amps.
I have an sku 5720 XM-L drop-in that regularly pulls 4 amps and I think it's flocking awesome!
allflockedupintheheadFoy
Yeah, sorry for being such nerd about amps 
but really I can't help it too. I suppose this sort of thing is just set in men's genetics!
Wow , yeah , but current does not = output ...
It is amazing how much current there pulling , but that's a little like being amazed at how much fuel your car uses ...
When you should really be comparing KW or HP [ output for us flashy's ] .... Lumens that is .. Candle power , Lux even .
When energy consumed = light output , then ill be amazed ... But if all we are comparing is hand warmers , then ? I just dont see it ..
My MF P60 , suffers horrendous amounts of sag when fed so much current , great for testing batteries , but for every day use ?
Oh well thats just me ...
It's not an amp contest. If his drop in isn't pulling the same amount of current as everyone else's, it's most likely not making a good connection somewhere. If you have 10 people saying they pull 4-5 amps and one person saying the drop-in is crap and they're getting 2 amps, they are either measuring wrong with their DMM or something isn't making good contact.
Don't you think it's slightly easier for people here to compare amps, that it is for them to compare lumens? Most people here don't have lux meters, and if they did, they would all have to take measurements at the same distance in the same type of colored space, etc... and you have to have an integrating sphere to be able to give a lumen rating.
It's much easier to help someone troubleshoot by saying "mine pulls 5 amps" than it is to say "well, my DX light meter reads 800 when set to 20,000 scale about 13.2 feet away when it's next to my flat-white wall and my grey Cat. His tail is blocking about 3% of the surface of the light meter so you can either subtract that out, or borrow somoene's grey Cat".
Its like a reference point. I currently have a 502b with a XML drop-in pullin 1.4a and i think it super bright.
AND I CANT WAIT TO REFERENCE MY POINT. HAHAHA
With my new SF L2 host and my new mf drop-in. When they get here that is!!! 
Fill like a little kid waiting on Christmas morning.
3.0V.
Ofc. theres no need for a constant pull of 4A, High mode is just for show-off.^^
Its just as posted before, if everybody got higher readings, I want them, too. :D
Too many variables for AMP's to be off any value as a comparison .....
look at the graph, this is a wf501b with a xm-l drop-in, the heat transfer of the drop-in has been improved with alufoil
Al-foil is standard tech for many years now ..
But the p60 format is not good for high amps ...
My low current L2's run around 480L right up to around 3.6v or there about's [ those variables ] , thats @1.4A , they are very nice everyday lights ..
My MF drop in , will drop to the same output in about 1 or 2 minutes due to the heat related sag , and still be drawing high AMP's ...
So my point is , 480L @ 1.4A or 480L @ 4A+ [ I can only talk for my lights here ]
So unless you know whats happening with the output , heat sag , current draw , = High AMP's does what exactly ?
Are you generating lots and lots of heat , torturing your emitter [ Thankfully the XM-L looks to be a far more forgiving emitter than previous models ] or are you generating a lot of output ... ????
So in a nutshell, the AMP reading offers very little on its own , and is in no way a reliable comparison in its own right . [ + those nasty variables ]
Unless the only comparison your making is how much AMP's the drop in can pull from the battery under ideal conditions ... And related to nothing else .
What old said is so true. And even though I do get amped about amps, a good build will put out the same or more with less current. The perfect example is my 980L that draws 4.50 to 4.80 amps and my knockabout E1320 modified F15 that pulls a dead steady 3.5 amps.
Both have the same SMO and both lights measure exactly the same on the Foyometer. The F15 just does it longer.
I don't know if anybody remembers but a while back I bought a warm XM-L from Manafont that was (is still) hardly brighter than a strong XP-G I have. Here is what it pulls on high . . .
This dang drop-in will suck a battery dry faster than you can say, "this sucks." (literally)
As I write this, I seem to remember someone offering to buy this crazy driver from me . . .
??Foy
I did ...
If mem serves , as did some one else .. Forget who ...
I have a dual XM-L P60 drop in , and id like to see if it will run 5A + [ just for the heck of it ]
Equipped with 2 U2 emitters side by side , only pulls around (I should check) 2.8A with a 2.8A driver ...
Darn. My probe slipped trying to measure the Vf and now I'm a proud owner of a dedomed XM-L.
Well, luckily all the phosphor's intact. The emitter still works as before, but has smaller hotspot now with warmer color. I wonder why that is.
So, sorry I can't measure my Vf, any more slip and I will lose the wiring on my emitter.
Whoa! A successful accidental XM-L de-doming! :O
My attempted ended in total destruction of the emitter; others have broken bond wires or removed the phosphor!
LOL, the dangers of flashlight surgery...
Yeah... I read about that in other topics. L.U.C.K.Y! And so easy to do too! :)
Aw, sorry to hear that Pulsar. :x But a smaller hotspot might be nice..^^
ChicagoX posted about a spray you can use to re-cover the led, said it works well.