And that may be a…neverending stooooryyyyyy
That is the intended way to use the pads. You have to make yourself an adapter with pogo pins. You’ll also need a different programming device and software compared to the D4v2.
I have zero clue where to start. I followed the guide on BLF for the D4v2. I have no idea what to purchase, what programming device, software, etc. Would this be similar software to the SP10 Pro? I have gchart’s adapter but haven’t had time to look for a guide for the SP10 Pro
Yes, basically the same as for the SP10 Pro. Just with a different pogo pin adapter.
for a flashing guide for the SC21 Pro see posts 206 and 209 by Adair21
for a flashing guide to Sofirn SP10 Pro see this post by zumlin
tldnr
can someone sell me a pogo harness for SC21 Pro that plugs into my TTL?
Im just in over my head trying to understand this:
Im trying to understand what connections to make to the TTL…
questions:
1. you want me to connect pin 6 on the SC21 to VCC? my TTL does not have a VCC label… which label is equivalent to what you call VCC?
2. you want me to connect pin 1 on the light to Both TX and RX on the TTL? And does this programmer need a resistor between pin 1 on the SC21 and the TX and RX parts of the TTL?
sorry to be dense… if this is just too many questions… I understand. Totally lost here…
Adair21, could you share a photo of the TTL and wiring harness you use to flash SC21 Pro? And how you conect to the light? I think Im a visual learner…
1: Use the 5V pin as VCC.
2: this is how I connected it:
Green goes to tx, blue goes to rx. The orange wire goes to pin 1 on the SC21
Seems like the adapter in your picture have been modded with a diode between T and R. In that case, just use the RX pin, 5V and GND
very helpful… thanks for the photo
so, this is my SP10 programmer from gchart, showing how I would need to connect it to an SC21:
…
Im unclear about tx/rx… the RX is shown, but where does TX go?
does this mean the SC21 Pro uses 4 wires, while the SP10 Pro uses only 3?
The stuff I did on my breadboard have already been done on your adapter. Notice the small black diode crossing between R and T on the board. This one connects them together.
Just use 3 wires. 5V (VCC), GND and RX (UPDI).
Just use 3 wires. 5V (VCC), GND and RX (UPDI).
Thank You!
will work up the courage to solder some wires for an SC21 Pro reflash… as soon as I grab a proper hex file
Here’s the file I used.
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex
Solder on!
Remember to do a factory reset after flashing, because it will have slow ramping until you do.
Here’s the file I used.
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hexSolder on!
got the Hex file, thanks!
and thanks for all the coaching, including explaining the T and R little black diode on the TTL that gchart built for SP10 Pro… I think Im almost ready to flash SC21 Pro…
instead of soldering wires to the TTL and the flashing pads on the light, I would like to build a pogo adapter for the SC21 Pro
can anyone here suggest a shopping list and links of what to buy to build a pogo pin harness adapter to fit SC21 Pro…
I have no experience shopping for the connectors and wires needed.
You’re welcome.
It’s very easy soldering. If I were you i would just cut the wires in your picture and solder them to the board.
Why wait for parts when you can get new FW already today?
Just apply a small blob of solder to the pads, then a little on the end of the wire.
Put the cable on top of the pad and touch it with the soldering iron so that it melts together.
That way you don’t have to hold the wire, the tin and the soldering iron at the same time.
You can use a soldering braid to remove the solder from the board afterwards if you like (I just left it there in case I want to flash it again in the future).
If I were you i would just cut the wires in your picture and solder them to the board.
thanks for your thoughts. I do not want to destroy the pogo adapter that gchart built for the SP10 Pro… so I wont cut those wires.
I do understand I could just solder wires to the programmer and light… and might do that, but, I have more than one SC21 Pro, so a pogo pin harness for that model, would be better than soldering wires…
in any case, thank you very much for getting me past my hardware wiring questions. Will update when I successfully update my SC21 Pro lights to Anduril 2.
update, with the tremendous help from zumlin on reddit I have moved one step closer… I measured the pads spacing on the SC21 Pro,
and he linked me to a potential 6 pogo pin adapter
I went ahead and ordered the one w 1.27mm spacing…
also want to thank gchart for sending me the SP10 Pro kit, that is shown in the photos.
jon_slider, please let us know how that 6 pin adapter works out. I don’t mind soldering pins to boards, but I don’t know anything about board design. I was hoping gchart would throw a design out on Oshpark.
Hey I am actually on BLF too. I read a lot here but I just don’t post much.
The numbers are a bit off, 1.4mm vs 1.27mm, 7.4mm vs 6.35mm (1.27 x 5). I have actually experienced this in the LT1, the spacing between the pads was a bit bigger than between the pogo pins, and they were not lined up straight either, but I was still able to flash it with a similar flashing adapter.
I hope that they are close enough on the SC21 Pro and I hope you have success flashing it.
the spacing between the pads was a bit bigger than between the pogo pins, and they were not lined up straight either, but I was still able to flash it with a similar flashing adapter.
that is my hope as well
thanks for all your time helping me learn to build a pogo adapter for SC21 Pro
Im finally starting to get the picture… LOL
Questions about Parasitic Drain on the SC21 Pro
can someone with proper tools and skills inform
- What is the Parasitic Drain of the button LEDs on Low and on High
- What is the Parasitic Drain with the main LED ON at lowest mode, w button light on low?
- IS there LVP for the Button light, or Can it overdischarge a battery?
backstory, recent reports on the TS10 show no LVP for button lights, and using High Aux (they are wired as button lights), on that light causes overdischarge.
- IS there LVP for the Button light, or Can it overdischarge a battery?
- It is not RGB, but single color aux LED
- LVP for single color aux LED is not implemented in official Anduril yet
Thus it will be affected as well, like all Anduril lights with single color aux LED.
LVP for single color aux LED is not implemented in official Anduril yet
thank you,
that is why I am asking what the Parasitic Drain is,
on the Green Button Light on High, of the SC21 Pro.
I want to calculate how many days before Overdischarge.
fwiw, that green button light does not produce a measureable output on my light meter
otoh, the TS10 Red Aux on High, measure 0.2 lumens (and overdischarges within 5 days of 24/7).
fwiw, The Floor output of 1/150 on the main LEDs of the TS10 also measures 0.2 lumens.