XP-L HI NW will be nice too for some more throw and better tint than XP-L2.
….but with considerably less output than a XP-L2 HD (lower bin+higher voltage), may dive under 4000 lumen. You forgot to mention that.
You see, every led is a compromise, there is no 1 answer.
Hi Jos. I totally agree with you about the discussion of different tints, leading nowhere. However, since you are in frequent communication to Barry could you please ask if Sofirn has ever considered other brands apart from Cree like Lumileds or Samsung? Maybe they could take a look onto the LH351D 5.000K 70CRI which has very good parameters in comparison to the XP-L2 without having the typical "fried-egg-beam".
I’m sure that Sofirn is aware of other brands and types of leds. But a factor that must not underestimated (so it proves) is availability in China. The Yuji leds for the little C01 were easy because they are made in China, they could simply order them from the Yuji store. It took a few years, but now a few manufacturers are also offering Nichia 219 leds of a few types, apparently there is stock of them in China atm. But finding considerable quantities of specific tints and CRI leds that we ask seems an enormous task, even if it is Cree leds, see the struggle of Texas_Ace to get Lumintop use the right neutral XHP70.2 led for the GT.
Do not get fooled by Kaidomain and Intl-outdoor, who offer specialty leds that appeal to us flashoholics, they learned their ways very well, and can only buy limited quantities of specific leds.
The led that I recommended therefore, is very commonly available from multiple sources so I hope that a chinese manufacturers are able to get their hands on them.
I see, that makes sense. One possible option could be some kind of a "limited special edition" with another LED than usual but I don't intend to interfere into their plans. So far, they are already doing a great job by taking into account opinions and input from BLF/TLF members into their upcoming projects. At least Sofirn could do us a great favour if they refrain from using glue on their new flashlights or at least use only very little of it, so one can still strip down the head for individual choice of LEDs and different drivers.
Yes, I agree with you. And you did a great choice. Warmer LEDs are better for the new all-over-phosphor LEDs.
And as you can see in on of the latest polls, something between NW and WW is the best for the most people. Which colour of LED bulbs is preferred?
4000K 80CRI was even verry good on the XHP70.2 with verry low Vf.
I have a D4vn with the XP-L2 4000k 80CRI from Mouser and the tint is pretty good. With clear optics, there is just very slight yellow corona with mostly rosy hotspot. With frosted optics, looks like it is either on the BBL or just slightly above. It is not as rosy as the 5A and 5D XP-L HI or XP-G2 that I tried but not bad for a non tint binned emitter.
How does the Mouser one compare with Digikey? If possible, I would love to buy 5A or 5D tinted versions of the XP-L2 80CRI.
Most of this new lights are too buggy to buy them with glued components, so a no go for me.
Does Sofirn glue other drivers? I’ve got three and each uses a threaded retaining ring.
I love 3x18650 parallel lights after purchasing the r0t66. I think this light will be a huge winner if they just put the same xpl hi as they did in the sofirn q8 for more throw!
If I wanted a brighter floodier beam, I can just pick up the rot66.
I like how they (Sofirn) got rid of the vertical line/groove going thru the bands of knurling, I suggested that in the Sofirn Q8 thread, a little late as it were, but they must have been listening which is very COOL and looks to me much more refined/cleaner, nice job Sofirn, please keep listening! :+1:
I won’t have to index the tube like I did on the SQ8 :+1: BUT NOW….
I am Quite bummed out though at the use of the XP-L2 only?…would of liked the option of the XP-L HI too, since the SQ8 came out with the XP-L HI’s, you would think it should/could be an option?
I’ll have to pass on this one… :cry:
Pass Kawi? What? And here I have these 8 XP-L HI’s all bagged up for you…
I’m pretty sure the SP32a v2 has a glued driver. The bezel was glued too.
The ROT66 is way floodier than the SP36 with XP-L2 leds.
Djozz you are a bad seller, I want the right light.
Can we have a lanyard hole in the head?
Like the acebeam k30?
It would be also nice on the Q8 lamps
I like also this slanted cooling fins.
I will ask for it, the sample has no attachment points at all.
Btw, I was too tired tonight to do a teardown of the SP36 sample but I did some turbotime testing. This afternoon I set the stepdown temperature at 60 degrees (or so I thought) and let the light cool down and recharged the 30Q’s. Later this evening I ran the turbo-test. It ran for 4.25 minutes at around 4600 lumen before stepdown occurred, the flashlight head was then 67 degC. So about 3 minutes before the head is too hot to hold (but I could hold it by the battery tube until stepdown)
I just measured throw of the SP36, and I get 39 kcd.
I also measured my high CRI 219B ROT66 and I measure 19 kcd, which is higher than maukka’s copy (he measured 14 kcd). The XP-L HI version of the ROT66 throws better btw, 60 kcd was posted by someone (seems somewhat high to me). The ROT66 manages that because it is higher powered with its 9 leds. (the XP-L HI version of the ROT66 has twice the output of the SP36. The thermal stepdown kicks in much sooner too: 30 seconds on my ROT66 when set at 60 degC., vs 4.25 minute on the SP36)
Could you post the length and diameter?
It’s a FET driver, right? Any info on regulated levels, PWM?
The leds are driven quite hard at max…
I think it’s a good idea and an interesting flashlight. Do you know if sofirn is planning to take out his 21700 c8f with USB charger? for me it would be ideal for some gifts that I want to make.