I bought this holster from the Sofirn Aliex store (large size) as recommended for the SP36. It is made of thick material (nylon I believe) and has a velcro belt strap that is easy to use and stays attached well when walking. A plastic d-ring is also included with the large version, I have not used this yet but is appears strong and well shaped.
The SP36 fits well in the holster and the cover flap closes snugly with strong velcro. I like that you can insert the light either direction depending on preference and still have a secure fit.
I usually store my SP36 in the holster and if I need to bring it somewhere I feel comfortable putting it in a center console or glove box and the holster is thick enough to prevent and scratches or damage.
Well, he is in RAMPING mode (that’s important to get the right setting table)
hold the switch to go into settings. Here 4sec. (On lamps from Texas Ace you must hold 16sec)
Wait till the lamp does a doubleblink followed by 3 blinks. That is the stepdown menue.
2.1 klick 3 times to choose timed stepdown
2.1.1 in timed stepdown the lamp waits for clicks. I think he clicked 2 or 3 times to set it for 1,5min or 2min stepdown
the lamp blinks menu #4 = strobe settings. Here he does nothing.
The lamp does 4 quick blinks to signal configuration is done.
But I dont know what he is saying.
What is the problem to understand, Barry?
It is basically walk through this table.
It helps when you have the table in front of you when you try to set up sth. Or you write down the exact click sequence before you try.
Hi. I received my new SP36 with Narsilm some days ago. My first impression was good but after that I realized that maybe I received a defective unit. The issued is with the surface finish of anodized aluminium body. There are defect and signs like from long usage and protrusion but that is brand new device. Also I talked with Sofirn support in Aliexpress and they told me it was normal and that is from screwing Can someone confirm if you have the same issues with SP36. Also there are also signs under the edge where the cap touch it.
Finally got around to taking the driver out and flashing anduril to the SP36 (and my D4S - nice to have same UI on lights).
It was worth the effort. There were a few things bugging me with the stock UI.
Setting moonlight to lowest level did not affect the bottom of the ramp, so had to do the click-hold to get that lowest level.
Button was way too bright with no apparent way to change, other than turning it off.
Keeping track of different UI's for different lights can be frustrating.
I used the "solder a handle onto the driver" method using a flattened piece of small diameter copper tubing and large iron. First attempt was a bit conservative and the handle pulled off. Second attempt with more surface area and heat did the trick - came out surprisingly easy this time. I think the extra heat helped as well.
I must say lightning mode is quite impressive with this light. ;)
Thanks for all the hard work put into the firmware and the ideas for driver removal!
It seems like a lot of people have had issues with the SP36 and returned it, but most of the time I don’t really see why. Tiny flecks missing from the anodizing where it didn’t stick during production? Maybe I’m not as picky about things, but I find it a little weird to return an item because of a surface-level flaw so small it’s hard to see without looking closely.
Functional issues are definitely worth returning an item, like if it doesn’t work right or isn’t safe to operate. But superficial issues are less straightforward.
I like the BLF SP36 so much, I may have to buy another. The LH351D’s are perfect for my eyesight. It hits the middle ground for me, not too warm and not ice blue. Keep in mind I’m color blind and it’s more about performance. I can still spot the difference when I put beams side by side, and I do find that I prefer the 5000k range.
I just got the driver out of mine and flashed the latest version of Anduril. I soldered a loop of 14ga wire to the contact ring and just pulled it out by hand, wasn’t even difficult honestly. After seeing the photos of the giant metal bar stuck through the loop to get it out I was worried I’d have trouble.
The driver snaps back into place very securely without having to glue it back in.