Has anyone tried changing the emitter in the M3 head to a MTG2 ? Would be a smaller head than the K3 floody too right?
Yes, and a tighter beam profile with the deeper reflector. It’s not easy, but can be done. The real problem though is heat. The pill is not designed to take the amount of heat the MT-G2 puts out, so if you do try it go in knowing you should keep it at or under 3A. I don’t like the M3 as much with an extension tube added so I used 2 18350’s. I think I’ve changed it again now, but still have my K3 modified pretty strong.
Snorts milk! Show him what you mean by “pretty strong”.
Normal Folks...... "Pretty Strong" definition.... good light, warm flashlight head...Good throw.
Dale....."Pretty Strong" definition.... As the tree 100' away across the street burst into flames when the light hits it, the head melts into a puddle on the ground at your feet.... BUT... since it is "Only Pretty Strong" the puddle of aluminum cools in 30 minutes or so. "Strong"..... Well, you just don't want to know! 
Dan.
Aw come on guys! This is the Solarforce K3 we’re talking about! It’s essentially a P-60 light, y’all know we can’t take that one much over 4000 lumens, right? 
I don’t even remember actually, I think I’ve got it choked back because of the heat issue with the style pill it has. Can we just agree it’s not stock?
Edit: So I had to check it out, my K3 has a big chunk of copper under the MT-G2 but it’s still running a Qlite and pulling 4.73A for 2563 lumens out the front.
Edit II: Made me curious… even my old Skyline I is doing 2646 lumens with an MT-G2. 
My M3 has a de-domed XP-L in it for 1297 OTF at the moment.
Pretty strong would be an XML2 at 4.5A 15W. 4.73A to an mtg is 30W. This is why there is what we fondly refer to as “Dale mode” to leave room for what he calls “throttling back”.
Well, once you’ve seen a BTU Shocker break 14,400 lumens the game is changed. (I actually saw it do over 16,000, but I won’t run it that way!)
Ha! Digging the replies…love the “Pretty strong” comment lol
So its totally do-able.
I have an extяa mtg2 copper mcpcb 16mm 5000k want to mount it on soмething.
Just remember that it will take 2 cells to run that, either 2 18650’s with an extension tube or 2 18350’s with a little tweaking. And you might want to do something to protect the tail spring if you go much over 4A. I have a McClicky in mine but even those don’t fare well over 6 or 7A. 10A eats em alive. Ask me how I know…
Oh, and for the record…if you put a Zener modified FET driver on it with 2 good cells it WILL pull 10A or more! Around 12A with Efest Purple 35A’s, over 16A direct drive with no driver.
Hmmm, if you REALLY like High CRI and you would like to see an awesome beam profile from that M3, and if you don’t mind spending a little…the Luminous SBT-70 should look pretty frakkin awesome in that one! 92CRI at 5700K. And it’s got a very low Vf so it’ll pull good numbers from a single top 18650.
LOL! It sounds like you mod cars! ”
Can run 30 psi to make 1600hp, but to preserve the engine I’ll only run 22psi for 1440hp”
With a push button boost to 29 psi, just in case…
I ran 3 series cells to 6V emitters through a Zener modified MOSFET driver. Briefly. You know, to reach the finish line first……
Check & Check Mate! Dale can get more out of a light than about anyone I know. Makes the sun run from shame!
Dan.
Alright so what can be done to the k3?
I doubt its that bright OTB. What 1500lumen…weaksauce
If you haven’t yet wandered around the forum I highly reccomend it. From the Main Menu> Forums there are sub forums with tons of interesting sub topics. Under >flashlight DIY is The BLF Modding Links Thread along with links to the first two DIY contest threads. If those fail to get the creative juices flowing take two caps and phone home in the morning. Seriously, OLdLumens started that particular thread as well as being the instigator of the contest and is probably the most influential modder this forum will ever see. Big, small, and everything in between, he repeatedly comes up with new ways to mod using only the kinds of tools one might find in anygarageUSA.
OTF, or out the front, is an indicator that it’s a measured number from the light in use, not an estimated emitter lumens or a random Chinese lumens figure. So yeah, it’s relevant, and out the back almost never is.