Then why are you wasting time going out of your way to find things to be outraged about? Look at the top of the page. It says "Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts." If you don't want to see things hacked, don't read the threads in here. Any more after this, and you're just trolling. Thanks.
I can’t speak for the OP, bit I’m guilty as charged. I’ve taken apart almost every light I have.
Seriously though, everyone does their own thing. We can all be happy. We all can do whatever we want with our own stuffs, post about it online, and share the experiences. Criticism is not required and unproductive.
Well you originally had it in the wrong spot.
So have fun tinkering.
Where? Where was it originally? Or are you just going by my second sarcastic post about requesting a move to the subforum it was already in?
Just having some fun with the smart guy. :bigsmile:
Some folks like to tinker.
I am used to spending REAL $$ on tinkering/modifying cars. That became too expensive being a student. So I found a new hobby, MUCH cheaper tinkering with flashlights. Although I usually keep my tinkering to the cheapo budget lights, if I ever feel the desire to tinker with a $100+ fenix or BlackShadow, you’re damn rights I’ll do it. This is a fun hobby! It can be frustrating, interesting, educating…but it is always fun. Whether you’re in it for the collecting, or you’re in it for the building and tinkering. We are all on this forum for the same reasons. An addiction known as flashoholism.
Anyways, back on topic. I am excited to see how this beast turns out. Props for having the guts to pull that monster apart! slow claps
comfychair, I think you definitely bought the correct light. Thank you for taking it apart and being determined to find out whats under the hood. Since you have the tenacity to mod, it will likely be one that you’ll be using well into the future. Now that its apart, can you get a current reading at the emitter before putting it back together and soldering the last wire?
IMO, the nod definitely goes to the S100 over the TN31 on this one. I personally will never buy another glued light ever again. It enrages me to think that a simple emitter & driver mod/swap can keep most lights current with the latest developments in LED technology, yet the more expensive brands chose to exclude this option so others will blindly pay for a brand new one. To those that could care less, more power to them. Let them spend their money as they please. If youve been here long enough, you’ll notice the same whiny people are always the ones to shoot dozens of pics and post across several threads to justify their own purchases. They will always go to any number of lengths in defending them… but thats a little mans inferiority complex that only professional help might attempt to solve. Again, at times I wish we had an “ignore user” button.
After all the glued lights have been tossed into the dumpsters, I’ll still be looking forward to reading about your triumphs with this light… well into the future.
Cheers & good luck! 8)
3.31A on high. All done except for trimming the centering ring/insulator thingie for wire clearance.
Wow! Ok. Lux measurements before and after are a must 
I think the idea of before Lux measurements has sailed already, unless comfy took them. I know I probably would have forgotten.
Ya. I was only hoping 
lol. Some sort of comparison is needed.
Buy me a meter and I'll be happy to post some numbers!
Without actual data all I can tell you is it's like... well, imagine a (neutral, now) white laser with a 3" diameter beam. Kinda like that. Which is cool and all, but kinda limited circumstances where it's really useful I guess. Also too which is why I keep going back to the MT-G2 idea.
Great numbers and thanks for measuring. This light is looking better and better all the time…
What tint is your XML2?
3C.
Anybody in the U.S. have U2s in stock yet?
Yes, I know, teflon wire... I keep forgetting...
nailed it
+1
Looking forward to hear more about this modded light! 
This thing is deceptive. I know, intellectually, that throwers act this way, but still end up letting it trick me. Going by ceiling bounce/wall testing, it just seems pitiful. But take it outside...
My backyard looks down over a long dropoff, stretches out to about 3 city blocks away and then there's another hill and past that there's just nothing more to see. Lots of 150ft pecan trees and such out there. Everything I can see in broad daylight, at night this light will LIGHT IT UP like a monster white laser beam. I have no idea how far it'll throw, I need a bigger test area. Plus I'm afraid somebody's gonna call the cops...
Last night, of course I don't have any way to know what altitude it was at, but it lit up a cloud. Like, a glowing cloud. In the sky. It wasn't heavy overcast, or particularly low clouds rolling in or anything, just a normal fluffy cloud up in the sky. What's it going to do at 6 amps instead of the current 3.3?
Sounds very cool!!! I would love to see some beamshots!! Thanks for sharing your mods.
It sounds like youve already turned out some really amazing results. Youre well on your way to enjoying this light, just as you had intended. When you get tired of it, you’ll tear it down and replace the guts again with something better, and dozens will follow your lead. Thank you for posting!
Yeah, throwers need some room to breath; otherwise they mostly become a burden in the average situation.
bump...
Driver gurus: anyone willing to teach me about this driver? Specifically in regards to how it'll work with a 6v MT-G2. Am I correct in thinking that since it's a buck driver, it will automagically somehow adapt itself to the new Vf? At least, that's the impression I get from trying to muddle thru some of the other driver threads. And if the Vf roughly doubles, will current output halve? If so which are the sense resistors I need to poke at with a pointy stick to get to around 2.5/3A with the new LED?
Next, I have tried and tried AND TRIED every possible lighting angle to get some contrast that will make the PIC readable in a picture, but it just ain't happenin'. But I can read it, it's a 12F629. Is there any code floating around for it, or will I need to swap it over to something more compatible to make it do all the neat tricks?
The light is apart currently, I'm replacing that crap hardware store wire I used in a pinch with something more suitable, so I can get more pics of anything that's needed.
also... is anybody curious how it will behave with a XP-G2 on copper, at the stock 3.3A? 
I have the parts here...