The T4 sounds awesome, accept for the tailcap being glued up tight. I'm really not sure how mush it means not being able to copper wire up the springs. They probably won't melt since the amps isn't that high with 3 cells (maybe even after 3.6A to each emitter?), but I would think the extra resistance isn't good. Not sure if you lose that power or you simply restrict the max output?
So it looks like the T4 is moddable in respect to the emitters and driver? Is there any other moddable soup-can light on the market?
Well of course the classic SupFire M6 is probably one of the most mod friendly soup cans around. Well published here how exactly to mod them, and several options of driver modding. Really like the brass retainer ring for the driver, for example. The M6's I have you can easily unscrew the tail assembly, but I heard some are glued.
T3 and T4 are "equally moddable". Pretty much any budget chinese soupcan light is easily moddable. Although, some are not that well made...
The SkyRay King and most of it’s clones are moddable as are the SupFire M6 and L1. RMM at Mountain Electronics does both the SRK and M6 as standard products and just finished modding an L1 for me which I am still waiting to get back. The Darth and Warrior are also moddable to some extent, mainly changing LEDs and sense resistors to increase output. I do not know of new drivers for them.
T4 not sure if the driver is changeable as it uses an unusual lighted switch assembly which per RMM is NOT compatible with any aftermarket driver boards. Same for the Terminator and SP03 lights. Virtually any light can have LEDs upgraded unless the heat sinking is too bad to make it worthwhile and many can have current sense resistors changed or jumpered to increase output.
A T4 will be my first test host for my RGBW driver running tterev3’s MELD UI, cant wait to get the parts and get it built. The end goal of the project is a EDC’able RGBW light but the T4 should be pretty bad ass for testing plus running 3x 4.35v cells should be able to stay in regulation a good amount of time.
RaceR86 how the heck did you get the switch out? I have the light together running MELD and an going to be using the switch indicator lights as a locator beacon but I need to change both LED’s to the same color and cant see how to get it open.
edit: got it!
nice!
If you are trying to take the tail cap off, the cap is actualy recessed. I got mine off with my fingernails… Grab a hold of 2 out of the 3 “cuts” on the bottom cap and twist. That easy.
Ooo. Great! Thanks for sharing.
1st try: Tailcap 1. Fingernails 0 (one of my fingernails got damaged)
2nd try. Tailcap vs some hotglue on the 3 "cuts" gave me enough leverage to easily unscrew it. (Added some brass stuff I had laying around on top of the glue)
:party:
I used bondo on the one I build with MELD for a customer. Been a long time since I had to bust out the bondo lol.