So I’m still trying to work out my aspheric build…
And I’ve had another thought.
if I take a copper noctagon mounted on a solid copper pill… good heatsink… ok…
great…
well I want to put a waven collar on the front…
What if it was made from a solid lump of copper and screwed down to the top of the noctagon…
Increased thermal mass and more surface area to transfer the heat to the cooling fins on the head especially if the head is custom made so that the entire block of copper contacts the side of the head.
I’m not quite sure I get what you are asking, are you saying you would make the wavien collar out of copper? Sounds like a massive amount of work for no real reason to me? Why not just increase the mass of copper under the star if you want more heatsinking?
A wavien collar must be a mirror, you're not going to achieve that in copper unless you plate it with nickel or chrome. And I also do not see the connection with heatsinking very well.
Well its wasted space in front of the star… collar is just sitting there… ive got to have some distance due to focal length…
So why not use it to heatskink ?
Not sure how much work it would actually be. …
Trying to make the wavien collar out of a solid chunk of copper would almost be impossible IMO, unless you had some pretty high tech machinery. In addition to those technical difficulties it would make the light very front end heavy, it would be like carrying around a hammer and holding it at the bottom of the handle.
How come you feel you need so much heatsinking? Are you planning to run massive current for an extended period?
Well apparently once you push an xpg2 past 5a it mostly makes heat… up until the wires burn out….mostly implied there is some minor gain… I’m happy if I can get a few %
You’ll need a good combo of mass and cooling fins if it is multi cell. The more direct the thermal path to air the better, this usually means cooling fins behind the led. Remember the wavien is reflecting light back at the led so it will be running hotter than usual anyway.
Yeah. Im considering either a pc cpu cooler and a hollow core battery cylinder or perhaps a peltier element… or 6 small ones as I cannot yet work out if a cylindrical peltier is possible. ?.
either way…
copper collar… or just a copper sleeve over the top of a genuine collar… is it going to be beneficial ?
Xpg2 single emitter 75mm aspheric is where I’m leaning at the moment. But Im new to custom lights and considering how much a lump of copper big enough to make a head to hold a 75mm aspheric costs… I’m going to ask a crap load of questions before I spend my hard earned money on parts…
Not in my opinion. There may be a very minor benefit if running for long periods but definitely not worth the hassle. If you’re going to go through that much effort it can be better spent trying to suck the heat directly from the led, ultimately an led mounted directly to a copper mid-section (no star) with lotsa cooling fins is near the safest and fastest ways of drawing heat away from the led.
A peltier plate has crossed my mind in the past but never tried it because I read somewhere they are sensitive to knocks and bumps, you loose efficiency, and if they ever fail then you find out the hard way. Of course, if you build something like that let us know because I would be keen to read about it
I see no benefit from anything more than using a Sinkpad/Noctigon on any stock pill when using a xpg2. Going massive on current (anything above 4.5A) and heatsinking will give you maximum 10% gain, while producing a heavy heater that produces some light as a side effect.
I found that pretty interesting. Bypasses the reflector and all the light goes into the main lens using a second focused smaller lens. Think he said it was 5.5a on a xp-g2. That sounds pretty high but he broke a million with that setup.
It’s awesome for copper to copper heat transfer and won’t break down over time. I used to use it exclusively on cpu, motherboards, and graphic cards and it always held up over time. It won’t work on aluminum but copper to copper, really nothing better.
Agree with djozz in a way. If you want practical- your going to have to settle with a lower output. If the pill heats too much to hold the light
Ive considered a pre col lense, while it does increase lumen output my understanding was it decreased the throw…
Ive got plenty of arctic silver, was going to use that.
best way of direct mounting a led?
