So the next time a light goes pearshape, don’t be too honest and tell them exactly what happened. Sellers are prone to think the buyer is telling only half the truth. So they multiply the height of the drop by two and deny the warranty (of course this isn’t math, it’s more like emotion).
If the light has no damage from the fall, show it to them, just tell them it suddenly stopped working. Won’t be the first time that happens. Lot of threads where a light stopped working after a mild bump.
Is that lying? Maybe, but you won’t get what you payed for when you are telling the truth.
I used to lie a little with banggood due to how hard it is to get a replacement. If it was a fault hard to show on camera, I’d unsolder a wire and show it not working at all.
As a dealer for Sofirn I don’t have to tell them the fault anymore, I just say I need a replacement X model and they send it. Mateminco isn’t that good, they’ll still ask me for videos etc which is annoying
Had a customer complain “my light is faulty, it’s stuck on low and blinking” messages back a few minutes later “sorry, it was just low battery” lol.
You are right. I have a little regret for telling them about the accident 
so they can sell me the driver for 5$ with free shipping. Is it worth the hassle with opening the flashight as a newbie ? i could get convoy t2 for 12$ include shipping. and sell the sps10s as emitter sparepart for 3-5$
If you’ve not modded lights before (and don’t want to spend a few hours possibly breaking the light you are trying to fix… hey, it happens!), then I’d go with the plan above.
Sometimes you have to give-up on a project when it’s just not worth the hassle, time and risk. That said, this is also a hobby… and so $5 isn’t a lot to spend if you WANT to torture yourself like so many of us here DO 
I almost always spent more money on my modded lights than if I bought them new. More guys here would also help you out with some stuff like flashing Anduril, etc. but shipping is painfully expensive today for sending back and forth.
If I had both of these lights to choose from today, I’d buy the Conyoy. IF Sofirn makes the UI better (Anduril) then I MIGHT choose it instead (depending on the price).
Good luck!
Go for the Convoy and drop the SP10s.
Sofirns’ lights are not easy to work with (glued) and for a newbie, quite small with much attention to detail. Need too many tools to work these lights.
I agree with this!
I agree with this too!
But, I don’t agree with this completely, and unless something has changed from the SP10A/B versions to that SP10S version, it is not completely accurate.
These smaller lights of them work(ed) with a screwed in but not glued bezel, a screwed but not glued in reatining ring and a fit it driver. SO, glue was not involved.
Therefore, the only tools you’d probably need to mod this light would be: pointy tweezers or pointy pliers to remove the retaining ring and then put it back in place, and soldering iron + solder to unsolder/solder the driver’s wires onto the led PCB. If you don’t remover the led PCB, you don’t even need thermal paste!!!
HOWEVER, this said, if you don’t have the know-how or the tools to make the replacement operation, and don’t want / can’t experiment doing the replacement, to give youself that hassle and jump into the Convoy T2!
EDITED: See Sidney Stratyon reply below!
Just looking over my SP10S and the driver is glued. As for the bezel, I may have broken the seal. I often do to test various filters and lens. Also, I don’t have the ‘B’ version but the SF14v2.0 is also glued. You are correct the “A” version has a retaining ring.
Sofirn glues everything as of late. I ordered a SD01 with the intention to replace the SST-40s with KW CULPM1.TGs. I’ll be challenged…
Ooops, so…something really changed from the initial versions, and not for the best… :person_facepalming:
I will “erase” what I said above, ’cause it seems I’m still living in the past :zipper_mouth_face:
Sorry for the glue and for my - hopefully not - misleading assumption!
Glue increases the reliability of the light since there’s no parts that’ll come loose. I hate glue though since it’s always a mission to repair for my customers. Thankfully Sofirn send out replacements instead of requesting a return and repair like Skilhunt and Mateminco. It’s either I get sent parts or I have to return it, even if its brand new.
The SP40 is glued and no amount of heat would budge the driver, ended up smashing a nail through the driver and using a screw to pull it out. Well, that didn’t work either, upon inspecting, the driver has another board soldered to it which extends up and is soldered to the switch board.
Now awaiting a replacement switch board since I destroyed it
Very late post here, but I am curious as to why anyone would attempt repair of a sub 20 dollar light. I would just buy another one, if I had not already bought 6…2 initially, and 4 more after finding out how much I like this little light. I mean the last 4 I ordered were $61.96 for all 4 with free shipping. That is $15.49 each. IMO that is just too inexpensive to be worth the hassle of fixing it, even if I can…which is likely…having worked as an electrician at a factory.
Because we can… and it is fun to mod them at that point.