That’s the FET driver.
You would be better off with the 7135-based driver, & remove a bunch of chips to get your desired output.
aha, lol, ok well the V2 is going to be sued then.
Now this has an impressive amount of chips, how many should be removed?
There is 1 for the moonlight (the 2 o’clock inner ring if I remember correctly) that need to stay, but if desolder a few from the outer ring does it matter which?
Doesn’t matter which of the others you remove.
If you are aiming for ~6 Amps total, then you want 17 chips on there. (17 *.350 = 5.95 Amps).
Are they .350 or .380 chips? It will be written on the chip.
ok thanks, they are .380
so 6/.38=15.79 ~16
a little loss here and there makes 17 to remain right?
12 inner ring and 5 on the outerring.
With the copper boards I would aim for a little higher, 9A, so 24 chips. And there’s no current ‘loss’ with current regulators, if the input voltage is enough (which is very probably the case), they will push their rated current through the leds.
I did the same with a six XM-L SRK. all i did was cut a custom copper star plate ( 1/8th thick) and pressed it in the SRK head, then installed six 219B emitters, and used the JB driver with stock lead wires, ( only spring braid mods) its bright, and high CRI
Topic here: >> 2000+ Lumens from a Nichia 219B 92CRI ?
Here is the topic of my SRK shoot-out, with the six Nichia SRK with beam shots: >> *** The great Skyray King shootout Fall 2015 ***
9A with no shelf!?
Do you have a nanjg driver around?
I would just use the stock driver and wipe everything off of it to use as a contact board. Then wire a nanjg three amp driver between the old driver and the emitters. Then wire the emitters in series. Easy peasy. Make sure they are on noctigons. The sideswitch works on the nanjg too you just have to solder it to the second pin on the MCU. Old lumens has a great post with pics for doing that.
I would also find someway to make a shelf. If this is one without the pill and floating in thin air you need to do that for sure. If it’s one that sits on the rim so it can transfer some heat that is probably going to be OK. Just make sure you use some good thermal epoxy and epoxy that big star down. Take that old big round star and flip it over to mount your new emitters on. Sand the other side down so it will make contact with the light for thermal transfer. I would even sand that little rim down so it’s bare aluminum instead of being anodized.
Thanks for all the input.
For starters I want to keep it simple.
So making a new pill or decent heat sinking is not something I see us do, where some soldering is feasible as rookies.
So the copper stars on the stock ALU shelf and some thermal grease to let that pass on more heat then it does now.
Because of the emitters this one does not need a super output just some nice good color rendering flood.
I think you made a typo, I’ve added strike-through in the quote. Series will not work - to use a Nanjg-105c/d type driver those emitters would be in parallel, just like with the stock configuration. Using a Nanjg isn’t a bad suggestion though. Slaving a second one would also be a possibility for a newbie (rather than stacking 7135s). EDIT: Actually that is a bad suggestion. 
If The Miller can’t flash the driver then The Miller will be unable to change the Nanjg from a clicky firmware to a momentary firmware. The clicky firmware wouldn’t be appropriate for an SRK.
If he’s looking for lower current, the stock driver is probably fine as it is.
You might just get away with using the stock driver and yup just use some good thermal grease on the shelf, metal to metal with a thin layer of grease or epoxy is best. You could even epoxy something from the inside if you want for more heat transfer. Go to your hardware store and see if they have some washers that fit inside, then epoxy that to the bottom of the star and if there is a gap between the washer and the sides of the light, jam something in there like copper wire or even tinfoil folded up really tight. Then use the screw hole to feed the wires through. There are more than one ways to skin that cat.
Right he would have to have momentary firmware for sure.
well I am not able to flash firmware.
And also I have the V2 drivers here, it is a matter of removing and not stacking chips (and getting things off is easier then adding)
But…… since the power does not need as high as the V2 RMM driver is designed for and there is space, yes, the input has led me to ask another question:
Is there a driver suitable for this project?
1 side switch
2 driving 3 Nichia 219B emitters
3 a few modes, memory
4 1,2,3 OR 4 cells parallel (this is not an issue because they are parallel right?)
The RMM V2 drivers look very good, it would feel strange to remove chips from it if another option could be used.
If I read correctly, I can remove all the parts from the stock driver and just use it as pass through for the current.
IMO you’re kind of at a standstill until you get your thermal situation figured out. The short answer to your question is definitely “yes”, a suitable driver does exist. RMM sells pre-flashed Qlites which are suitable as well as slave boards to hold more 7135s. He also sells SRK sized drivers with less 7135s. FWIW I don’t think RMM’s normal firmware has memory - just forward and backward through the mode groups.
You won’t be able to choose a drive current until you say for certain whether you’ll be heatsinking the LEDs into the body or the reflector/air inside the head. If you won’t have a thermal path to the body you’ll have to stick with a low drive current. Getting heat out into the head through a metal-metal-metal-etc path will let you choose a driver with a much higher current.
how many amps does the stock driver put out? Why change the driver if it is already sufficient for your needs?
Yep the batteries are parallel so no worries there. You can use the stock driver as a contact board. If you want I can flash a nanjg 105c for you, wire it up for you and send it out on Monday. Oh and yes parallel on the emitters not series (I always get them backwards when typing). My favorite firmware for these is a ramping driver with memory.
One reason is that the stock driver is almost certainly DD (and only limited by being low quality). A linear driver would be a small improvement because it would allow the use of high-drain cells without worrying about smoking the emitters.
BTW, what are the hot ramping firmwares these days? TK mentioned a preference for ramping firmwares in e-switch lights and I’ve been meaning to try one out. I understand that some of them have various shortcuts or quick methods to get to high/low and ramping+memory.
TIA
I’ll PM you the Code for the one I use and you can take a look at it. If I can still find it that is. I have the hex file saved I know, but I’ll have to look around to find the code itself.